Easy, Healthy Soul Food Recipes with a California Twist
Tanya Holland’s latest cookbook celebrates the rich past and present of Black foodways in the West, and dishes up new soul-food recipes that satisfy in any season.
Reprinted with permission from Tanya Holland’s California Soul: Recipes from a Culinary Journey West by Tanya Holland, published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House. Text copyright © 2022 Tanya Holland. Photographs copyright © 2022 Aubrie Pick.
Simply put, chef Tanya Holland is the queen of West Coast soul food. The accolades and honorifics are many: Michelin Bib Gourmands, frequent topper of top restaurant lists, fierce Top Chef competitor, host of the Food Network series Melting Pot. Honorifics aside, Holland has been a consistent deliverer of deliciousness at all of her Bay Area restaurants, from the multiple iterations of Brown Sugar Kitchen in Oakland and San Francisco to Town Fare at the Oakland Museum. While she was busy evolving this mini restaurant empire, she was also honing her skills as an educator and entertainer. Her first book, New Soul Cooking, penned when she was chef at Berkeley’s now shuttered Le Theatre, laid out a formula of forward-looking, lighter soul food some two decades before it became a nationwide trend. She went on to write yet another book, and hosted the podcast Tanya’s Table, on which she interviewed the celebrities who frequented her spots.
Reprinted with permission from Tanya Holland’s California Soul: Recipes from a Culinary Journey West by Tanya Holland, published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House. Text copyright © 2022 Tanya Holland. Photographs copyright © 2022 Aubrie Pick.
Like many casualties of the pandemic and the economy, the Brown Sugar restaurants are sadly closed, but like a gift, a new book that builds upon her influential oeuvre has arrived—and it’s a beauty. Tanya Holland’s California Soul: Recipes from a Culinary Journey West is a synthesis of all the thoughtful cooking, personal and cultural backstory, and heartfelt hospitality Holland is known for. We learn not only about Holland’s move to Oakland, where she found a city and culture more welcoming to an ambitious Black female chef than anywhere she’d been back East, but also about the broader context of Black foodways that preceded her.
Reprinted with permission from Tanya Holland’s California Soul: Recipes from a Culinary Journey West by Tanya Holland, published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House. Text copyright © 2022 Tanya Holland. Photographs copyright © 2022 Aubrie Pick.
Among California-ready versions of soul food, such as black-eyed pea dip spiked with smoked paprika and fresh thyme, or po’boys made with fried artichokes, you’ll find profiles of Black farmers, winemakers, and food businesses, along with “historical detours” that chronicle Black culinary history in the West. Taken together these make the volume a historical record as much as a cookbook. While I’d long been an admirer of Holland’s career arc, it wasn’t until a chilly winter night in Oakland a few years ago that I had the honor of eating at Brown Sugar Kitchen and getting a taste of Holland’s hospitality. Sure enough she was there. I asked her what a hungry and cold diner should order, and without hesitation she told me to get the oxtails and collard greens and a glass of hearty red wine, and, of course, she was right. In this excerpt from the book we’re happy to share with you a few wintry dishes below that deliver all that comfort firsthand. For more, pick up a copy of Tanya Holland’s California Soul: Recipes from a Culinary Journey West at your local independent bookseller.
Soulful Winter Favorites
Steamed Mussels with Fennel, Pancetta, Herbs, and Three Onions
“Winter’s abundance in California includes black mussels; golden fennel that sprouts on the side of roads and in fields; and purple, sweet, and golden onions,” says Holland. “Fennel, pancetta, and the three kinds of onions come together to create a stunning sweet and savory broth that enhances the sweet shellfish. Mussels are one of those foods that more people should cook at home: They’re relatively inexpensive, delicious, and very easy to prepare. In true California spirit, serve this with a toasted chunk of sourdough bread to sop up the broth.”
Pimento Cheese Popovers
“If you’ve ever traveled down South, I hope you’ve enjoyed some piquant pimento cheese. “Here, a mixture of sharp Cheddar cheese, cream cheese, onion, and pickled jalapeños adds richness to a simple popover. The pimento cheese can be served with crackers, toasted bread, or crudités,” Holland says.
Vegan Winter Greens Stew with Herb Dumplings
“This vegan play on chicken and dumplings is perfect for a wintry meal,” says Holland. “The body of the stew is hearty, with bold round flavors and a slight kick from the mustard and lemon. The aromatic, airy herb dumplings are ideal for soaking up the delicious broth. It’s like a comforting bowl of braised greens with extra veggies and dumplings to make it a meal.”
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