Top 9 dude ranch escapes
Unplug your smartphone and reconnect to the backcountry at our favorite dude ranch spots
Mountain Sky Guest Ranch, Emigrant, MT. Sprawling across 8,000 pine-studded acres just north of Yellowstone, Mountain Sky began hosting dudes in 1929. But its glam status derives from current owner Arthur Blank, cofounder of the Home Depot and owner of the Atlanta Falcons. He made it his goal to push Mountain Sky into the upper echelon of guest ranches anywhere in the world. He succeeded. Moutain Sky is one of those rare places that looks better in real life than on its website. The timbered main lodge could be home to an Old West cattle baron; guest cabins manage to be cute, rustic, and luxurious all at once. In terms of food, think Montana meets 16th arrondissement, with huckleberry pancakes vying for stomach space. Outdoor activites run the gamut. Beginning horse people can take the easy ride to a cluster of pioneer homesteads, experts the tougher trail to Crater Lake. There’s excellent fly-fishing, hiking, and poolside yoga. In summer, about 85 percent of guests bring kids, so the children’s program lets kids and parents happily part ways during the day, then reunite at meal times.There’s something else about Mountain Sky that is harder to put into words, except to say that you quickly feel at home here. This has a lot to do with the employees, who are uniquely gifted at encouragement. In the end, Mountain Sky is what heaven would be like, assuming heaven has world-class scenery, phenomenal horseback riding, and superb food. From $3,365/person/week through Aug 27; $350/night (3-night min.) Aug 28-Oct 23; mountainsky.com
Triple J Wilderness Ranch, Augusta, MT. Triple J is the kind of off-the-charts charmer where you won’t feel like one of the gang unless you’re sporting your Stetson and biggest belt buckle. The stunning qualities of Montana’s Rocky Mountain Front are just timeless. I experienced a heart-stopping, hills-are-alive moment at the top of Wedding Point, with craggy peaks and Gibson Lake showing off before me. After a day of clip-clopping along the glacier lily-dotted trails on the back of Rebel, I felt a world away from my desk job. A day on the trails or casting for trout is best followed by a hearty meal in the main lodge. It’s tasty, stick-to-your-bones fare: blueberry pancakes with Montana boysenberry syrup; fried chicken; roast beef and mashed potatoes; and bottomless fresh lemonade. Triple J has everything an aspiring cowboy could long for: campfires, cookouts, rawhide roping, even crooning cameos from local poet/singer Mike Morris. Or, vacationers who prefer to leave aspirations to their workday lives can simply sink into the swing with Maddie the mountain dog, and soak up the scenery. 4-to-6-day stays from $1,300/person through Oct 5; triplejranch.com
Seven Lazy P, Choteau, MT. We have, at times, despaired about the Ted Turners and David Lettermans of the world buying up Montana’s pristine parcels. But one visit to Seven Lazy P, and you know with assurance that the old-school, family-run ranch is alive and well. Chuck and Sharon Blixrud have been here since the 1950’s–poster parents for the mom-and-pop ranch. Seven Lazy P is refreshingly no-frills. Log cabins are comfortably simple, and guest numbers are limited to fewer than 20, so dinner at the lodge’s communal table feels like a family affair.There’s great riding, of course, but the North Fork of the Teton River is within easy walking distance. Best of all are the pioneer-style summer pack trips ($300/person/day; 5-day min.), where a small group heads out with wranglers and a cook for a backcountry trip in the Bob Marshall Wilderness. From $1,600/person/week through Sep 30; sevenlazyp.com