Finding Neapolitan pizza in the Northwest

Five Great Neapolitan Pizzas
Thomas J. Story
PORTLAND Apizza Scholls. Though not wood-fired, Apizza’s oven hits the super-hot temperature that’s key to the crisp-chewy texture of a true Naples pie. $$$; dinner Wed–Sun. 4741 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd.; 503/233-1286. PORTLAND Nostrana. A brand-new addition to the Buckman neighborhood. Chef/ owner Cathy Whims (of longtime Genoa fame) offers classics and seasonal specials such as broccoli rabe with smoked provolone. $$; lunch Mon–Fri, dinner daily. 1401 S.E. Morrison Ave.; 503/234-2427. SEATTLE Cafe Lago. Outstanding Naples-style pizzas, thanks in large part to the blistering hot oven (fueled with Yakima Valley apple wood). $$. 2305 24th Ave. E.; 206/329-8005.
SEATTLE Tutta Bella Neapolitan Pizzeria. The airy, windowed space in Columbia City turns out wood-fired pizzas to die for. It’s even certified by the Verace Pizza Napoletana organization. $. 4918 Rainier Ave. S.; 206/721-3501. SEATTLE Via Tribunali. More authentic than some pizzerias in Naples, with an all-Italian menu and an oven built from bricks and tiles made of Mt. Vesuvius ash. $$; dinner Tue–Sun. 913 E. Pike St.; 206/322-9234. ―Cynthia Nims
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