Sungold Tomatoes in Roasted Tomato Vinaigrette
Thomas J. Story
This minimalist salad from Seattle's Tomo is all about the maximalist dressing: roasted tomato vinaigrette. It requires a multi-step process that yields a vinaigrette that’s deeply flavored thanks to the roasted tomato water and the addition of Yondu, a prepared sauce loaded with umami-packed fermented vegetables that’s easily found online. While it’s a bit of a project, this makes 1 1⁄2 quarts of vinaigrette. Freeze in batches to use over the next couple of months.
Tip: Tomato water might be unfamiliar to home cooks but to chefs it’s a well-known way to extract that fleeting, magical flavor of peak-season tomatoes. The basic technique is: Blend tomatoes, strain through a fine mesh strainer or cheesecloth, collect the juices, and you’re good to go.
This recipe and others like it first appeared in the story "'Brutalist Ryokan Meets Coastal Dive Bar': James Beard Winner Takes Seattle’s Tomo over the Top," from Sunset's 2022 Garden Issue.
How to Make It
1
In a medium pot over medium heat, combine 3⁄4 cup water, white balsamic vinegar, sugar, and kombu (breaking into pieces if necessary to fit in pot) and cook, stirring occasionally, until dissolved, about 3 minutes.
2
Cut beefsteak tomatoes into quarters and char on a grill in small batches. Do not overcrowd or the tomatoes will steam and not char properly.
3
Place charred tomatoes in a large bowl, pour hot balsamic liquid over them, and mix in lime zest, lime juice, sesame seeds, Yondu sauce, and salt. Allow mixture to cool and place in a container overnight to steep.
4
The next day, strain through a cheesecloth or chinois into a large bowl. Use dressing immediately or freeze for up to one month.
5
To serve: Place Sungold tomatoes in a bowl and season with Maldon salt. Dress with 1 cup of the roasted tomato vinaigrette and drizzle with olive oil. Garnish with coriander flowers.
Ingredients
½ cup white balsamic vinegar
½ cup sugar
1 (12-inch-by-6-inch) piece kombu, about 2 1⁄2 oz.
3 lbs beefsteak tomatoes
1 tsp lime zest
¼ cup lime juice
¼ cup toasted white sesame seeds
1 tbsp Yondu sauce
1 ½ tbsp kosher salt
2 cups cherry or Sungold tomatoes
Maldon salt
olive oil
12 coriander flowers for garnish, optional
Directions
1
In a medium pot over medium heat, combine 3⁄4 cup water, white balsamic vinegar, sugar, and kombu (breaking into pieces if necessary to fit in pot) and cook, stirring occasionally, until dissolved, about 3 minutes.
2
Cut beefsteak tomatoes into quarters and char on a grill in small batches. Do not overcrowd or the tomatoes will steam and not char properly.
3
Place charred tomatoes in a large bowl, pour hot balsamic liquid over them, and mix in lime zest, lime juice, sesame seeds, Yondu sauce, and salt. Allow mixture to cool and place in a container overnight to steep.
4
The next day, strain through a cheesecloth or chinois into a large bowl. Use dressing immediately or freeze for up to one month.
5
To serve: Place Sungold tomatoes in a bowl and season with Maldon salt. Dress with 1 cup of the roasted tomato vinaigrette and drizzle with olive oil. Garnish with coriander flowers.
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