Square deal

Rum-Raisin Sticky Buns

We thought we’d seen just about every baking pan imaginable. Round, fluted, tube, loaf ― our test kitchen cupboards are jammed with them all. But it’s time to make some space, because we’ve found a new obsession: a springform pan from Kaiser Bakeware.

Of course, we’ve used springform pans before, but this one is different: it’s square. The new shape makes it great for bar cookies, brownies, and cakes, tarts, or quiches that you want to cut into squares to serve a crowd. (The seam between rim and base is not watertight, though, so don’t use a very thin batter or a water bath.)

It’s just the thing for easy sticky buns, which rise to fill the square pan perfectly. We pour a rich brown-sugar glaze over the top of our sticky buns (instead of caramelizing sugar on the bottom) to take advantage of the lip on the pan base, which catches stray drips. And because the springform is nonstick, cleanup is easy ― no sticky sauce welded to the pan. In our tests, eating the extra glaze with a spoon was our second favorite thing about this recipe ― just behind the pleasure of acquiring new bakeware. $40. Available at Sur La Table and Williams-Sonoma and through ( Kaiser Bakeware or 800/966-3009).