Oysters, Lamb, Derby Pie: This Holiday Feast Has It All
L.A.’s reigning king of pescatarian restaurant perfection shares holiday-worthy recipes from his new hot spot, Queen St.
Thomas J. Story
A few years ago, a little restaurant called Found Oyster opened on Fountain Avenue in Los Angeles and put a very SoCal spin on the New England seafood shack: It had impressive platters piled high with shellfish (one is cheekily called the Baywatch), and scallop tostada with yuzu kosho, and caviar service with potato chips.
Before pandemic rules added much-needed patio dining, it was just one long counter with stools and a handful of two-tops crammed into a space about 12 feet wide and about twice as deep. It had a smart, short list of zippy wines that go great with seafood, and a convivial vibe typical of little restaurants with tons of seafood and good wines.
Thomas J. Story
Despite the requisite pandemic detour, the spot was pretty much thronged from the minute it opened. It didn’t take reservations, so savvy folks knew to line up at opening time, snag a seat early, and immerse themselves in an evening of freshly shucked oysters and crudos washed down with chilled bottles of orange wine alongside other folks just happy to be crammed shoulder to shoulder in the hands of a crew that knows what it’s doing.
That crew is led by Ari Kolender, a chef who’s worked around Los Angeles, with a fresh bivalve-sourcing assist from general manager Joe Laraja, whose family conveniently owns an oyster farm in Massachusetts. Now Kolender and crew have taken a similar approach with their new restaurant, Queen St., in L.A.’s Eagle Rock neighborhood, where they (and their guests) can stretch out and get more personal. The new restaurant’s name refers to a fabled commercial street in Kolender’s hometown of Charleston, South Carolina, and the menu marries Southern and Southern California influences in dishes like blue crab fritters with buttermilk ranch, oysters topped with Santa Barbara urchin and caviar, and fried flounder served with spicy apricot agrodolce.
Thomas J. Story
Not only is the menu more wide-ranging, but the space is larger, with a horseshoe bar in the center and a raw bar piled high with pebble ice and oysters, and, for the first time, reservations, making it all the better for groups and parties. And parties are exactly what we had in mind when we approached Kolender to share some of the more celebratory dishes from his menu that would be right at home at a holiday feast. He came back with these recipes: broiled oysters spiked with Parm and Worcestershire, crudo dressed with dill, rich lamb ribs topped with a vibrant salsa verde, and more. They are simple, satisfying, a little indulgent, and sure to impress your family and friends.
Try These Royally Good Queen St. Recipes at Home
Grilled Lamb Ribs
“Every holiday I think of lamb,” says Kolender. “Grandma used to make rack of lamb with mint jelly every winter when I was growing up. This version swaps the Ninja Turtle–colored condiment for an anchovy-spiked salsa verde. The lamb can be braised well in advance and will hold in the fridge for a few days if need be. That way, all you need to do is grill or sear the meat to heat it back up during the rest of your busy holiday celebration.”
Pairs with: 2021 Timeline Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Queen St. Salad
“This is our namesake salad at the restaurant. Easy, delicious, and full of flavor,” says Kolender.
Char-Broiled Oysters
“While you can broil any oyster, they will shrink in size when they cook, so you should take that into account. I like to broil larger oysters. So, if I go to the market and buy a bushel of oysters, I like to set the big ones aside for broiling, and the smaller ones for shucking and eating raw.”
Pairs with: 2020 Egret Chardonnay, Sonoma Valley
Mackerel Crudo with Horseradish
“While I love this with the smaller Japanese mackerel (aji), you can also use Spanish mackerel, king mackerel, yellowtail, snapper, or salmon.”
Pairs with: 2021 Soléna Estate Pinot Noir Grande Cuvée, Willamette Valley
Tomato and Anchovy Bread Pudding
“This recipe is perfect for a 12-inch cast-iron skillet. It’s an oldie but a goodie. Some call it Southern pizza, and I believe they are right.”
Derby Pie
“This pie is famous in our household. My grandmother used to airmail it to me when I first moved to California, and has been making it so long, she couldn’t (or wouldn’t) tell you where she got the recipe. I’m led to believe that she invented it!“
Pairs with: 2021 Andis Painted Fields Curse Fields Curse of Knowledge, Sierra Foothills
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