Tecate’s tacos
A less-traveled gateway to Baja is renowned for terrific tastes
By midday in the friendly Mexican town of Tecate, just overthe border in a rocky clutch of mountains near San Diego, therhythmic tunk-tunk-tunk of cleavers chopping sizzling carne asadadrifts down the sidewalks and tope-ridged streets. Topes are speedbumps, and they help determine Tecate’s unhurried ambience―apace quite different from the blazing speed at which the town’smasterful taco chefs assemble paper-wrapped packets of puffy, hottortillas, grilled meat or beer-battered fish, and a dollop or twoof each stand’s trademark salsa. Tacos are big business here; tastethem and you’ll know why.
Many of the best taquerías are within walking distance ofthe tree-shaded main plaza. Finding the plaza is easy, but beforeleaving the United States, pick up one-day auto insurance ($10-$40;contact your insurance agency―standard U.S. policies are notvalid in Mexico). Cross the border via State 188, and head down thehill four blocks to Cárdenas and Juárez streets. Park asclose to the plaza as possible. We don’t list many addresses or anyphone numbers because there are few posted street numbers andthere’s no need to call ahead―of these four favorites,several are bound to be open on any given day.
If you fancy fish, from the plaza walk two blocks west onJuárez, then north on Obregón street to bright blueMariscos Chemel (230 Obregón). Its tempura-like seafood tacoshave a sublime crunch. Back on Juárez, walk west to Tacos LaGuerita (at Santana street) to sample tacos al pastor, made withspicy meats sliced from a vertical rotisserie. Ask for grilledgreen onions, charred and sweet.
