Cozy blanquette

One of my favorite old-fashioned French classics is among the retro dishes appearing on the most chic restaurant menus across the country: blanquette de veau.

A delicate, satisfying stew made of veal shoulder, it’s quite easy to make ― the simple process will bring some sanity into your kitchen during this busy month. You needn’t brown the meat (so no spatters); just simmer it gently with a few herbs and spices in broth until it’s tender.

Then boil the juices briefly to concentrate their flavor, polish them off with a modest splash of cream, thicken them a little, and combine them with vegetables ― mushrooms and onions ― that have been glazed separately in a little butter to retain their form.

The French serve blanquette de veau with almost anything that captures the good sauce, such as rice, mashed potatoes, or pasta. They might draw the line at soft polenta, but I don’t.