Pizza-friendly red wines

“Sinister Hand” 2008 by Owen Roe (Columbia Valley; $24). A complex, dark-fruited wine with layers of mocha, tobacco, and underbrush.

Bonny Doon Vineyard “Le Cigare Volant” 2005 (California; $32). Brooding and dark-souled; black pepper, olive, tobacco, and earth underlie black cherry, mocha, and red licorice.

Jorian Hill “Beespoke” 2007 (Santa Ynez Valley; $40). Elegant, with juicy black cherry flavors, a grind of black pepper, and hints of violets.