Polenta puffers

James Carrier
Never-fall soufflés

Polenta Soufflé and Salad

Victor Scargle, chef at San Francisco's Grand Café, offers up these puffy, golden polenta soufflés as a hearty first course. Paired with a salad, they make a handsome, satisfying entrée for lunch or a simple supper. Although moist and light, the soufflés are more like spoon bread than the classic puffer. This deviation is a blessing because, unlike a temperamental true soufflé, which demands careful timing, these polenta soufflés endure. You can even bake them ahead, then reheat.

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