Victor Scargle, chef at San Francisco’s Grand Café, offers up these puffy, golden polenta soufflés as a hearty first course. Paired with a salad, they make a handsome, satisfying entrée for lunch or a simple supper. Although moist and light, the soufflés are more like spoon bread than the classic puffer. This deviation is a blessing because, unlike a temperamental true soufflé, which demands careful timing, these polenta soufflés endure. You can even bake them ahead, then reheat.