A classic wrap

Cabbage rolls with a quick and light touch
ANDREW BAKER

Recipes


Hardly any food escapes a wrapper these days ― Thai chicken in a spinach tortilla, goat cheese and roasted peppers in won ton skins. But long before the current craze for encased edibles, cooks were wrapping the main course in cabbage leaves.

A Hungarian dish, cabbage rolls are traditionally filled with beef or pork and served with a light tomato sauce on a bed of sauerkraut. A no-fat cooking method ― steaming ― makes them comfort food with a clean (and lean) conscience.