Classic lobster tales

James Carrier
Hold the bib when you serve this elegant shellfish dish

When dinner isn't suited to rolled-up sleeves, I go for Newburg, a shellfish classic. The delicate sauce enhances, without overwhelming, the sweet freshness that makes lobster so appealing. You cook and shell the animals in private, hours ahead ― and save the brilliant red hulls for a dramatic presentation. You can even start the sauce in advance. My only break with tradition is to whip the cream; I add part to the sauce and reserve a cool dollop to spoon on last. The pale cloud melts smoothly into every bite.

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