20 essential Mexican ingredients
Silvana Salcido Esparza (pictured), chef of the popular Barrio Café in Phoenix and Barrio Queen in Scottsdale, points out the true finds.
Use it: Depending on size, roll for burritos or fold for fajitas.
2 | Corn tortillas. Available in various sizes (often 4-inch and 7-inch diameter) and in white, yellow, and sometimes blue corn.
Use it: To avoid artificial coloring, choose the white or brown (cocoa) varieties.
4 | Bolillo. A light, crusty submarine roll.
Use it: Split and fill with jalapeños, ham, and melted Oaxaca cheese for a quick sandwich.
Use it: Pour on everything.
6 | Salsa verde. Canned green salsa is a good shortcut to avoid peeling and roasting tomatillos.
Use it: Esparza livens up canned salsa (Embasa brand, for the thick texture) with puréed chipotles in adobo and a few dashes of Tapatío.
7 | Cajeta. This caramel sauce is akin to dulce de leche. Esparza loves the full, tangy flavor of Coronado brand, made from goat’s milk. For a milder flavor, look for one from cow’s milk.
Use it: Top Cajeta Ice Cream Sundaes, or simply spread on a saltine for a “to-die-for” salted caramel treat.
Use it: A spoonful of puréed chiles kicks up the flavor of tomatillo salsa, barbecue sauce, and the sauce for Chicken Tinga Tostaditas.
9 | Achiote paste. Mayan in origin, it’s made from annatto seeds and imparts smoky, peppery flavors and a reddish hue to marinades and sauces. Esparza dilutes the paste with sour orange juice.
Use it: Dilute the paste with sour orange juice (juice and paste over chicken or tilapia. For chicken, roast or cook slowly in a dutch oven. For fish, wrap in a banana leaf and grill.
Use it: Throw it in soups, canned pinto beans, and rice to give lift to a dish (pull it out before serving). Infuse tequila with it by dropping a few in the spirit, or use it in Sangrita de toro.
11 | Ancho (top right). A dried poblano with a rich, smoky flavor that Esparza especially likes with beef.
Use it: For salsa, reconstitute and purée with broth, garlic, and salt, then cook. Cool, then add cilantro and diced onion.
12 | Guajillo (bottom right). Has little heat but a fragrant, earthy flavor; Esparza calls it “the king of dried chiles.”
Use it: It’s central to mole sauces and also commonly used in red chile sauce (Chile colorado).
13 | Negro (bottom left). A chilaca that’s dried; may be sold as “dried pasilla.” It has a black color and deep flavor, like a spicy prune.
Use it: Reconstitute and purée with other dried chiles, then slow-cook with beef or pork.
Use it: Top Enchiladas Suizas or grilled nopales.
15 | Cotija. A semihard, salty, crumbly finishing cheese similar to parmesan.
Use it: Makes a sharp-flavored garnish for red chile enchiladas or tostadas.
16 | Queso fresco. Semisoft and creamy; used for cooking and as a condiment.
Use it: Crumbled in Enchiladas Suizas.
17 | Mennonite. Increasingly popular semisoft cheese, introduced to the state of Chihuahua by Mennonites.
Use it: Make mac ’n’ cheese, with adobo chipotles for kick.
Use it: In Enchiladas Suizas. Or, for a simple salsa verde, peel and roast tomatillos until tender, then purée with arbol chile.
20 | Nopales. The stickery pads from the prickly pear cactus are hard to clean. But at Mexican markets, nopales often come already cleaned (dethorned and peeled) and either whole or chopped.
Use it: Parboil cleaned, chopped nopales, then dunk in an ice bath so they don’t get gummy. Sauté with garlic, onions, tomato, and scrambled eggs or tofu. Or, if you buy whole cleaned pads, brush them with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill on one side until olive-colored, about 4 minutes, then turn, top with Oaxaca cheese, and grill 3 minutes more.