It’s Always a Party at This Colombian-Californian Restaurant in Oakland
Parche is Oakland’s liveliest new restaurant and bar. It injects the dining scene with a dose of festive vibes and big flavors—both on the plate and in the glass.
It’s a Thursday night at Parche in Oakland and the place is banging: groups at tables, date-night two-tops, and walk-ins at the bar nod to a Latin-inflected soundtrack as they sip vividly colored craft cocktails and tuck into artfully plated arepas and empanadas dressed with avocado mousse and jalapeño-cilantro aioli.
Other dishes that meld California-modern and Colombian cuisines command the energetic room’s attention: A take on the now classic California Brussels sprouts side dish is ennobled with plantain crumble. An impressive short rib is served “Cartagena-style,” braised in Mexican Coke and served with a yuca-coconut mash. And oh those drinks: Equally artful, they’re complex, full-flavored, bracing, and have just the right amount of sweet, strong, and sour—the better to toast this moment that embodies the progression of West Coast dining, Oakland-style.
In this multicultural city whose best restaurants have long prided themselves on taking foodways forward, with a nod to the impeccable sourcing and culinary discipline wrought by Alice Waters and all who followed in her footsteps, Parche is a welcome addition that manages to feel entirely new and instantly at home. Garnering rave reviews and near instant inclusion in the Michelin guide, Parche (pronounced par-shay) is the brainchild of Paul Iglesias, who runs the restaurant along with his wife Sophie. Paul wanted to mine his Colombian heritage and bring all of his training in fine dining to the table… and the bar.
On my first visit we got to talking about his philosophy of hospitality and I’m not surprised to learn his first job in the restaurant industry was under Spanish-born, D.C.-based chef José Andres, whose creativity and care of the diner (not to mention philanthropy) are legendary. As we chat, he apologizes as he learns one of his guest tables is celebrating a birthday. He brings out a celebratory cocktail from the bar, the entire staff of the restaurant breaking into a song otherwise reserved for carnival. It’s a thrilling convivial parade that’s sweet and kind of embarrassing but welcome in a restaurant world that can sometimes take itself too seriously.
That communal, culinary, and cocktail-focused moment is at the heart of what Parche is all about: people coming together in a shared space where they can eat the highest expression of a cuisine in a city that nourishes diversity. So join us as we take a tour of the colorful corner of the world known as Parche, and learn a few of the delicious drinks that celebrate the ever-evolving spirit of the West and will let you throw your own Parche-style party at home.