Thomas J. Story

Chef Evan Funke, L.A.’s prince of porchetta and pasta, cooks a holiday feast inspired by the flavors of the Eternal City.

Hugh Garvey  – December 18, 2020

As L.A. tipped nearly imperceptibly from summer to fall, chef Evan Funke gave the city an early holiday gift: a pop-up restaurant residency in Hollywood inspired by the pizzerias and osterias of Rome. (Unfortunately, it’s currently temporarily closed due to COVID-19 restrictions, but is expected to re-open as soon as it’s safe.)

Chef Evan Funke
Chef Evan Funke

Thomas J. Story

Over the years, Funke has risen to fame as a master of Italian cuisine, most notably with his restaurant Felix in Venice, a transcendent temple to handmade pasta. His new spot in Hollywood, in a romantic little open-air passageway—a mini piazza if you will—is just what Angelenos needed some eight months into a grueling chapter in the city’s history.

The restaurant is charmingly, hopefully, called Fingers Crossed. Here he serves his version of Roman food: simple pastas and pizzas and the occasional roast. For our holiday issue he returned to the dish that first drew him acclaim here in L.A. when he served it from a food truck: porchetta, that fennel-and rosemary-scented pork roast ringed with crunchy skin. He served it on sandwiches way back when, but for this menu he went big, with a twelve-pounder that’s worth the effort and will take you from the holidays and possibly into the New Year. 


This Story Came From the 2020 Home & Hearth Issue

Get one year of Sunset—and all kinds of bonuses—for just $24.95. Subscribe now!