Chef Evan Funke, L.A.’s prince of porchetta and pasta, cooks a holiday feast inspired by the flavors of the Eternal City.

Evan Funke's Porchetta
Thomas J. Story

As L.A. tipped nearly imperceptibly from summer to fall, chef Evan Funke gave the city an early holiday gift: a pop-up restaurant residency in Hollywood inspired by the pizzerias and osterias of Rome. (Unfortunately, it’s currently temporarily closed due to COVID-19 restrictions, but is expected to re-open as soon as it’s safe.)

Chef Evan Funke
Chef Evan Funke

Thomas J. Story

Over the years, Funke has risen to fame as a master of Italian cuisine, most notably with his restaurant Felix in Venice, a transcendent temple to handmade pasta. His new spot in Hollywood, in a romantic little open-air passageway—a mini piazza if you will—is just what Angelenos needed some eight months into a grueling chapter in the city’s history.

The restaurant is charmingly, hopefully, called Fingers Crossed. Here he serves his version of Roman food: simple pastas and pizzas and the occasional roast. For our holiday issue he returned to the dish that first drew him acclaim here in L.A. when he served it from a food truck: porchetta, that fennel-and rosemary-scented pork roast ringed with crunchy skin. He served it on sandwiches way back when, but for this menu he went big, with a twelve-pounder that’s worth the effort and will take you from the holidays and possibly into the New Year. 


This Story Came From the 2020 Home & Hearth Issue

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