Dedication to the tortilla is just one reason to shop at the West’s many Mexican markets, found in just about every city and town. These markets cater to customers who prize freshness and crave a variety of fresh, dried, and packaged ingredients, plus a stunning array of prepared sauces and salsas—often at bargain prices.
Silvana Salcido Esparza (pictured), chef of the popular Barrio Café in Phoenix and Barrio Queen in Scottsdale, points out the true finds.
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1. Flour ortillas. Tortillas from white flour come in different sizes and are often labeled for their intended use: burrito, fajita, etc. Esparza says that the large ones, from the state of Sonora, are sometimes referred to in slang as obaquera (sobaco means armpit) because their roughly 15-inch diameter stretches from elbow to armpit.
Use it: Depending on size, roll for burritos or fold for fajitas.
2. Corn tortillas. Available in various sizes (often 4-inch and 7-inch diameter) and in white, yellow, and sometimes blue corn.
8. Chipotle chiles in adobo sauce. A chipotle pepper is a dried, smoked jalapeño; adobo sauce contains tomatoes, cloves, cinnamon, sugar, vinegar, and salt. “A perfect combo of savory, sweet, and spicy,” says Esparza, who likes Embasa brand for its rich color and smokier flavor.
Use it: A spoonful of puréed chiles kicks up the flavor of tomatillo salsa, barbecue sauce, and the sauce for Chicken Tinga Tostaditas.
9. Achiote paste. Mayan in origin, it’s made from annatto seeds and imparts smoky, peppery flavors and a reddish hue to marinades and sauces. Esparza dilutes the paste with sour orange juice.
Use it: Dilute the paste with sour orange juice (juice and paste over chicken or tilapia. For chicken, roast or cook slowly in a dutch oven. For fish, wrap in a banana leaf and grill.
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10. Arbol (top left). “As flavorful as the habanero, but with a fraction of the heat,” says Esparza. It’s brittle when freshly dried and doesn’t require rehydration.
Use it: Throw it in soups, canned pinto beans, and rice to give lift to a dish (pull it out before serving). Infuse tequila with it by dropping a few in the spirit, or use it in Sangrita de toro.
11. Ancho (top right). A dried poblano with a rich, smoky flavor that Esparza especially likes with beef.
Use it: For salsa, reconstitute and purée with broth, garlic, and salt, then cook. Cool, then add cilantro and diced onion.
12. Guajillo (bottom right). Has little heat but a fragrant, earthy flavor; Esparza calls it “the king of dried chiles.”
Use it: It’s central to mole sauces and also commonly used in red chile sauce (Chile colorado).
13. Negro (bottom left). A chilaca that’s dried; may be sold as “dried pasilla.” It has a black color and deep flavor, like a spicy prune.
Use it: Reconstitute and purée with other dried chiles, then slow-cook with beef or pork.
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14. Oaxaca (pictured). A semisoft melting cheese often sold in a mozzarella-like ball meant to be torn off in strips, it’s closest in texture and flavor to string cheese or Monterey Jack.
17. Mennonite. Increasingly popular semisoft cheese, introduced to the state of Chihuahua by Mennonites.
Use it: Make mac ’n’ cheese, with adobo chipotles for kick.
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18. Crema. Called Mexican sour cream, it’s less tangy than the standard kind. Crema Mexicana is thinner; jocoque is thicker, like crème fraîche. You’ll find crema in the dairy case, but check the cheese counter for a fresh crema bar, where you can taste before you buy.
19. Tomatillos (pictured). These common tart, tomato-like vegetables are the foundation for salsa verde. Esparza likes the harder-to-find milpero tomatillo, a tinier, more expensive version, for its more concentrated flavor.
Use it: In Enchiladas Suizas. Or, for a simple salsa verde, peel and roast tomatillos until tender, then purée with arbol chile.
20. Nopales. The stickery pads from the prickly pear cactus are hard to clean. But at Mexican markets, nopales often come already cleaned (dethorned and peeled) and either whole or chopped.
Use it: Parboil cleaned, chopped nopales, then dunk in an ice bath so they don’t get gummy. Sauté with garlic, onions, tomato, and scrambled eggs or tofu. Or, if you buy whole cleaned pads, brush them with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill on one side until olive-colored, about 4 minutes, then turn, top with Oaxaca cheese, and grill 3 minutes more.
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