Three cheers for three edible hues

Jerry Anne Di Vecchio

At i. Cugini restaurant in Santa Monica, the culinary accent is Italian, as clearly expressed by this salad. It flaunts the colors of Italy's flag ― red, white, and green ― with three kinds of leaves, each of which has a slightly bitter edge. Italians like to play this edge against creamy pastas and juicy steaks. A number of other countries ― including Mexico, Ireland, India, and Madagascar ― fly these colors too; the salad could be served with equal patriotic zeal in 10 nations.

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