The little bistro straddles the edges of Nob Hill, Russian Hill, and Chinatown; in fact, its building shares a vestibule with a Chinese cultural center. You walk through what seems like the neighborhood watering hole, with a marble bar and a crowd that’s not quite raucous but clearly out for a good time. To your right, though, is a dimly lit dining room with glossy molding, tufted banquettes, and white tablecloths. The menu reads like dull comfort food—burgers, pastas, even chicken salad—but what comes out of the kitchen is more ambitious: an heirloom tomato salad with freekeh (a Middle Eastern roasted wheat), a side of wild mushrooms with ramps, and a burger on a pretzel bun. (And bloody as promised—a true rarity.) Whatever you do, don’t overlook the wine list, with two Copain selections served by the carafe. Investors in that well-regarded Healdsburg winery just happen to own this restaurant as well.