The Weirdest, Most Wonderful Road Trip in the West Is Hiding in Nevada

For some, Nevada is synonymous with the glitz and glam of the Entertainment Capital that is Las Vegas. But as fun as a trip to the Strip can be, there’s so much more to explore. And for those fascinated by the Western esoterica, there’s no better way to see it than via a road trip through this iconic Southwestern region.

There’s an unexpected abundance of nature to be seen in this corner of the state, including at places like Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge, a large, biodiverse wetland in the middle of a desert. And extraterrestrial enthusiasts will find a once-in-a-lifetime stop in the town of Rachel, where UFO sightings from nearby Area 51 have famously taken place. The state’s sweeping landscapes and wide-open spaces truly are a blank canvas for creativity. Across the desert, you’ll find outdoor installations like the massive sculpture City—one of the largest art installations in the world—which was created by famed Nevada-based land artist Michael Heizer.

Thomas J. Story

This epic road trip along Nevada’s historic byways will take you from nature to neon and to a wide variety of iconic attractions, from Old West ghost towns and haunted hotels to the Extraterrestrial Highway and Vegas’ famous Neon Museum. It’s totally weird in the best way, and a particularly inspiring journey for photographers to boot. Here, we break down the perfect road trip day-by-day, complete with photography tips to get the best shot from our staff shooter, Thomas J. Story.

Day 1: Wildlife and UFOs

Thomas J. Story

After landing in Las Vegas, pick up a rental car and head north to Alamo, where you’ll find Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. In the Paiute language, Pahranagat means “Valley of Shining Water,” which is a fitting name for this wetland mecca situated in the Mojave and Great Basin Deserts.

It’s a spectacular place for viewing hundreds of ducks, geese, and songbirds as they migrate south in the fall and back north in the early spring. You may even luck out and spot a bald eagle or two. In addition to the astonishing bird activity in the area, Pahranagat is home to the Mojave rattlesnake, desert tortoises, coyotes, mule deer, and tundra swans.

Next, make your way along the Extraterrestrial Highway, where you’ll find your lodging for the night at the Little A’Le’Inn in the town of Rachel, which proudly embraces its proximity to the Nevada National Security Site and Nellis Air Force Base. The bare-bones motel is located 27 miles north of the top-secret Air Force Base known as Area 51, making it a hub for alien enthusiasts. Grab a saucer burger and some spacey Alien Amber Ale at the hotel’s quirky cafe, then head out for some night photography and stargazing. Just don’t be alarmed by the sonic booms at night, as frequent testing takes place at the nearby Air Force base. Don’t worry, you’re not being beamed up! (Not yet, at least.)

Photo by Thomas J. Story.

Photo Tip

Pack smart. Night photography requires a tripod and a fast lens (at least f/2.8) set at ISO 3200. To maintain sharp stars, you’ll want the exposure at fewer than 20 seconds; otherwise, it will result in star trails. Star trackers are a great, moderately low-cost investment if you become serious. Night mode in newer iPhones is great, but there are also slow shutter apps available for iPhone and Android. It’s also helpful to have something in the foreground for visual interest, like the flying saucer above.

Day 2: Car Art and Clowns

Thomas J. Story

Make your way down miles of wide-open highway to Tonopah. Once the site of one of the richest booms in the West, this town’s silver history is commemorated inside the Tonopah Historic Mining Park, an outdoor museum showcasing what once was. After enjoying a local craft beer and wood-fired pizzas at Tonopah Brewing Co., venture out along the Free-Range Art Highway on Highway 95, making sure to stop at the art and history sites along the way.

Thirty minutes south of Tonopah in the town of Goldfield, you’ll find the International Car Forest. Alongside tailing piles from the “Last Great Gold Camp,” you’ll get to know this desert “forest,” one rusted-out, perfectly teetering, partially buried vehicle at a time. This free installation is one of the largest open-air art galleries in Nevada.

If you’re into ghost hunting, you’ll want to check into lodging in Tonopah for a completely creepy evening. The Clown Motel has rightfully earned its title as “America’s Scariest Motel” due to its clown theme and proximity to the Old Tonopah Cemetery. We brought our electromagnetic reader, and it was going off when pointed toward the most haunted rooms. For those looking for something more high-end, book at the Mizpah Hotel, which is also said to be haunted. Afterward, enjoy an Old Fashioned in the hotel’s luxurious lobby, or a perfectly seared rib eye in the downstairs restaurant, the Jack Dempsey Room.

Otherwise, spend the night steeped in history at the Goldfield Stop Inn, where the three cozy rooms are appointed with original Goldfield relics alongside modern conveniences, including a private bathroom that was relocated from an old gas station in Fallon and an original sink from the world-famous historic Goldfield Hotel.

Thomas J. Story

Photo Tip

Paint with light. Flashlights with gels taped over them are an excellent budget option. But we went with a Pixelstick for some real fun. You want to maintain a balance with the overall shot, so try to integrate the lights into the subject.

Day 3: Go Ghost Town

Thomas J. Story

Head south on Highway 95 to Gold Point, where history comes alive in this once-booming—and very appropriately named—mining town that’s now home to a well-preserved main street, a picture-perfect saloon, and a one-of-a-kind bed-and-breakfast. Today, history buffs and ghost town enthusiasts flock to Gold Point and its still-standing main street. You can pony up to the bar, shoot pool on a 1909 Brunswick table, or browse a photo album—weighing 128 pounds—that contains more than 8,000 images of Nevada mining camps.

After visiting Gold Point, head south to the town of Beatty, located just two hours from Las Vegas. Check in at the Exchange Club Motel before heading out to the ghost town of Rhyolite, one of the most photographed ghost towns in the West—and rightfully so. It’s hard to imagine that this once-booming town, complete with its own train depot and the remains of a bordello, was once the hub of hope and prosperity before entering a state of arrested decay.

After your ghost town gallivanting, cap off your night at Happy Burro Chili & Beer, a divey saloon known for its chili and Old West aesthetic. Then, get ready for the final leg of the journey. (Or, tack on a day to explore the nearby Death Valley National Park.)

Thomas J. Story

Photo Tip

Knowing when to be there is half the battle, especially in locations in canyons like this. Use an app like Sun Seeker (available for iOS or Android) to determine sun location at any time of day in any location. If you know your location is surrounded by mountains, your sunset is going to be way earlier. To prepare, use Google Earth to scout your location; nothing is more frustrating than missing the best light by 10 minutes!

Day 4: Nature and Neon

Thomas J. Story

Make your way from Rhyolite to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, an approximately two-hour drive. This breathtaking landscape offers a picturesque driving path accessible for all levels, as well as excellent trails for casual hikers and routes for rock climbers. The “Scenic Drive” requires reservations for timed entry during October through May, but it’s well worth it.

The end cap to your road trip should absolutely be The Neon Museum, a graveyard for historic restored neon signs from the Strip and historic Downtown Las Vegas that makes for some of the best Instagram shots on the planet. It’s a return to the real world and away from the wide-open spaces, and a perfect way to do so.

Thomas J. Story

Photo Tip

When capturing nature in Nevada, use a polarizer to reduce haze and increase saturation. When photographing neon, hope for an awesome storm to sweep through. Though it may not be the best for hiking, clouds are your friends in photography, especially at twilight! Also note that The Neon Museum does not allow DSLR cameras, only iPhones, but the same sentiment applies.