Five great fish and chips in Washington

Port Townsend
The Landfall Restaurant. Chips here partner with pollack, oysters, calamari, or shrimp. Check out the ship-mast forest of Point Hudson Marina from the octagonal dining room. $; breakfast and lunch daily. 412 Water St.; 360/385-5814.

Seattle
Alki Crab & Fish Co. Succulent cod and halibut, hefty skin-on fries of immaculate crunchiness, and a drop-dead view of the skyline rising across Elliott Bay. $; lunch and dinner daily. 1660 Harbor Ave. S.W.; 206/938-0975.

Duke’s Alki Chowderhouse. High-end fish and chips with a bird’s-eye view over Elliott Bay. Full bar, a relatively ambitious menu, and crisp, slightly sweet cucumber salad. $$; lunch and dinner daily. 2516 Alki Ave. S.W.; 206/937-6100.

Ivar’s Pier 54 Fish Bar. Ivar’s established a beachhead on the waterfront generations back, and its speedy, reliably fine fish-and-chips outlets spawned and migrated inland long ago. But only at the waterfront address do you get panhandling gulls. $; lunch and dinner daily. 1001 Alaskan Way; 206/467-8063.

Tacoma
Harbor Lights. Ike was president and fried was the way to cook fish when this restaurant opened, and there’s something to be said for perfecting the basics. Panoramic harbor view, delicate breading, and perfectly moist cod, halibut, and salmon inside. $$; lunch and dinner daily. 2761 N. Ruston Way; 253/752-8600.