Greg Faucette and Jason Limburg, who both cooked at Bar Tartine and Commonwealth in S.F.’s Mission District, came to wine through food, which makes for a refreshing approach. “Basically,” Limburg says, “we just go with stuff we like.” The result, at their upbeat Panhandle location, is a migratory list (Verdelho from Portugal’s Alentejo; Cabernet Franc from New York’s Finger Lakes) that favors subtle pours over tannic fruit bombs, the better to pair with the chefs’ sharp small-plates menu of seasonally shifting Cal-Med cuisine.