With his Pok Pok restaurant empire, Portland chef Andy Ricker has done a brilliant job of bringing Thai street food to the West (and the East; he has two spots in New York City). His latest restaurant, Portland’s Sen Yai (“Big Noodle”), focuses on kuaytiaw, complex noodle dishes not typically seen in the United States–yet. “I eat noodles almost every day when I’m in Thailand,” says Ricker. “What we see here on Thai menus just scratches the surface.” Sen Yai offerings like kuaytiaw khua kai (pork fat-fried noodles and chicken with cuttlefish) go deep.
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