Pizzaiolo has been an Oakland classic since Charlie Hallowell quit the Chez Panisse kitchen to create this airy, exposed-brick restaurant. People pile in for the housemade pastas, famous meatballs— and pizzas pulled from the wood-fired oven. Pie to try: The smoky Monterey Bay squid, with slightly charred cherry tomatoes and garlicky aioli. Insider tip: Doors open at 8 a.m. for doughnuts (cross your fingers for custard-filled with chocolate icing) and Blue Bottle Coffee.
5008 Telegraph Ave.