Wood-fueled oven. Farm-to-table menu. The hallmarks of a Charlie Hallowell restaurant, evident at Pizzaiolo and Boot and Shoe Service, are present at Penrose too. But the chef now has his hearth set on a broader repertoire. Instead of thin-crust pizzas, he’s slinging Middle Eastern flatbread, along with assorted wood-fired items that show the kitchen’s willingness to roam around the map. A seared hanger steak with farro, grapes, and chimichurri shares space on the menu with a robust Moroccan chickpea soup and a roasted half-chicken, with apple-fennel slaw, that springs straight from the rustic Cal-Med playbook. A buzzing bar, an upbeat soundtrack, and eclectic artwork, including a Jetsons-like glass awning above the kitchen, lend the place the feel of a trippy farmhouse operating at an urban pace.
3311 Grand Ave.