James Carrier
Beef, turkey, even lamb … why not pork for burgers? Maybe because in recent years pork often hasn’t tasted very good. Our collective fatphobia has driven producers to breed leaner and leaner pork. And since fat carries flavor in meat, much of the flavor has been missing. Now, however, better-tasting pork is coming back to the market, thanks in part to San Francisco Bay Area-based Niman Ranch, which has partnered with small family farms in the Midwest to offer more and more naturally raised, less lean pork.
Chef-owner Suzanne Goin of Lucques restaurant and A.O.C. wine bar in Los Angeles uses well-marbled Niman Ranch pork for her triple-pork burger, which tastes just the way a patty in a bun should.
In a large bowl, mix ground pork, chorizo, bacon, olive oil, shallots, parsley, thyme, and cumin. Form mixture into four equal patties about 3/4 inch thick.
Lay burgers on a barbecue grill over a bed of medium-hot coals or medium-high heat on a gas grill (you can hold your hand at grill level only 3 to 4 seconds); close lid on gas grill. Cook burgers, turning once, just until no longer pink in the middle (except for pieces of chorizo; cut to test), 13 to 15 minutes total; keep a spray bottle of water handy to douse any flames. Set burgers on buns.
* Percent Daily Values are based on a 2,000 calorie diet. Your daily value may be higher or lower depending on your calorie needs.