What to Sip with Seafood

Pour this nuanced mix of citrus and stone-fruit flavors in lieu of the ubiquitous Chardonnay (although a crabcake is one partner that won’t kick Chard out of bed).

Recipe: Ultimate Crabcakes

A brut-style bubbly blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir is a bright, citrusy foil for crisp fried food, with a berry-flavor bridge to the sweet squid.

Try it at home with: Vietnamese Calamari Herb Salad

More: Sparkling wine 101

With crisp-battered fish, this delicate, lemony white is better than a squeeze of lemon.

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Here's a wine that offers citrus and minerals to echo the brininess of mussels, along with sweet pear and apple flavors that team up with the sweetness of the shellfish.

Recipes: 5 ways with farmed Mediterranean mussels

More: Pinot Gris/ Pinot Grigio 101

Make both red- and white-wine lovers happy. This meaty halibut dish goes both ways: We love it with a light-bodied, high-acid red, such as Sangiovese, and with two aromatic white Rhône grapes, Roussanne and Marsanne (traditionally blended with Viognier but now going solo more often).

Recipe: Grilled Halibut with Fennel, Tomatoes, and Roasted Garlic Rouille

Our picks for this dish
Cline Marsanne Roussanne 2008 (Sonoma Coast; $16). Crisp and refreshing, with bright lemon, orange zest, and a sprinkling of stone-fruit blossoms.
Holly's Hill Roussanne 2008 (El Dorado; $18). Both floral and earthy, aromatic but dry. Gardenia and mineral aromas are followed by white peaches and apricots, with characteristic orange zest on the finish.
Tablas Creek "Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc" 2007 (Paso Robles; $40). Pricey but beautifully made, with the perfect balance of minerality and fresh lemon blossoms on the nose, followed by delicate tart peach and orange blossom flavors.
Truchard Roussanne 2007 (Carneros, Napa Valley; $20). Lush yet lively, with honeyed floral aromas followed by peach nectar and then a pick-me-up of pink grapefruit.
Chanticleer Sangiovese 2007 (Yountville, Napa Valley; $45). A wonderful mix of spicy earth and berries ― especially dusty strawberries and raspberries.
Monte Volpe Sangiovese 2005 (Mendocino; $18). The grape's classic dusty berries are in full force here, plus zippy cherries and red licorice, plums, and black pepper.

This Italian grape, with minty dark cherries and berries and juicy acidity, punches up the herbs in the cioppino's broth and keeps step with its sweet seafood.

Salmon and this light-bodied red have matching silky textures, and berries and warm spices in the wine set off the sweet, pungent fish.

Recipes: 10 ways with Pacific salmon

More: Pinot Noir 101