12 cozy winter lodges

Ski, skate, sled, or just relax by the fire at the West's ultimate winter retreats

Emerald Lake Lodge, Field, B.C.

Photo by Thomas J. Story; written by Celeste Moure

Emerald Lake Lodge, Field, B.C.

High in the Canadian Rockies, Emerald Lake Lodge won’t provide you with email, cell service, or in-room TV. Instead, it gives you deep, soft snows on a 13-acre peninsula jutting out into Emerald Lake. In the main lodge—a hand-hewn timber structure that dates back to 1902—you’ll play pool by the fireplace, drink at an oak bar salvaged from a 19th-century Yukon saloon, then sup on dishes like duck breast and hazelnut risotto. When it’s time to turn in, you’ll sleep in one of 24 two-story cabins, each with a balcony and stone fireplace. Local activities include cross-country skiing, downhill at nearby Lake Louise, and ice-skating on Emerald Lake. From $203 U.S.; crmr.com/emerald

 

Fireside Resort Jackson Hole, Jackson Hole WY

Photo by Thomas J. Story; written by Aislyn Greene

Fireside Resort Jackson Hole, Jackson Hole, WY

Just 5 1/2 miles from Teton Village, the cabins at Fireside Resort Jackson Hole have all the wintry musts—fireplaces, pillow-top mattresses, and decks big enough for snow gear—in a compact, eco-conscious package. The siding is reclaimed snow fencing from Interstate 80; the hardwood floors are made from Douglas fir deadwood; even the ceilings are recycled barn wood. The 25 cabins are close together, but they’re so well designed, with a glass doorway and high windows that let in lots of light, that your neighbors seem to disappear once you step inside. For extra privacy, they’re angled to maximize views of the woodsy property. The resort supplies firewood and s’mores kits for use at the shared campfires. When you’re ready to reenter civilization, free ski shuttles run on the hour. From $225; 2-night min.; firesidejacksonhole.com

Shore Lodge, McCall, ID

Written by Aislyn Greene

Shore Lodge, McCall, ID

Picture an incredible day on the slopes, followed by dinner in the locavore Narrows restaurant ($$$), then retiring to your room to watch snow fall on frozen Payette Lake. About 100 miles north of Boise, Shore Lodge is just a shuttle ride from the small, family-run Brundage Mountain Resort and complete with a new spa, heated saltwater pools—one outside in a private garden—and a small movie theater primed with popcorn and Casablanca. From $129; shorelodge.com

Salish Lodge, Snoqualmie, WA

Written by Aislyn Greene

Salish Lodge, Snoqualmie, WA

Perched at the top of 268-foot Snoqualmie Falls, Salish Lodge is less than 30 miles east of Seattle but feels a world away. The lodge’s Attic restaurant ($$) has breathtaking views of the falls, usually dusted with snow in December. The rooms have jetted tubs for two and wood-burning fireplaces, and for something truly sweet, the lodge’s apiary produces honey used in everything from herb scrubs in the spa to the beer served in the Attic. From $189; salishlodge.com

 

The Ranch at Rock Creek, Philipsburg, MT

Photo by Thomas J. Story; written by MacKenzie Geidt

The Ranch at Rock Creek, Philipsburg, MT

The Wild West goes glam at the new Ranch at Rock Creek, about 1 1/4 hours southeast of Missoula. Feeling sporty? We won’t rattle off the full list of winter activities but will note that they include Percheron-led sleigh rides. Lazy? There’s no shame in whiling away the hours with a book and a hot toddy by the crackling fire in the Granite Lodge after a massage at the spa. It’s anything but cheap, but given the winter fantasies you can fulfill here—any sport you could dream up, celestial cuisine and endlessly flowing wine, all on one of the prettiest riverfront spreads in the state—it gets trip-of-a-lifetime status. Local activities include cross-country skiing, downhill at nearby Discovery Ski Area, ice-skating, and sleigh rides. From $1,000/person all-inclusive; theranchatrockcreek.com

West Shore Café & Inn, Homewood, CA

Photo by David Fenton; written by Rachel Levin

West Shore Café & Inn, Homewood, CA

You won’t find this anywhere else on Lake Tahoe: Across the road from the downhill runs of Homewood Mountain Resort, an intimate six-room inn that feels like your very own home. Or, well, like the woodsy-elegant waterfront home of your very wealthy friend. You know, with flickering gas fireplaces, slate-stone bathrooms, and floor-to-ceiling windows (in your room and at the downstairs restaurant-bar) that reveal every glorious ripple of Tahoe and the peaks beyond. Pad around in slippers, if you like—lots of après-skiers do, as they sidle to the bar for a Bloody Mary. Local activities include reduced-rate skiing and snowboarding at Homewood, as well as cross-country skiing and ice-skating nearby. From $249; westshorecafe.com

 

Dunton Hot Springs, near Dolores, CO

Written by Peter Fish

Dunton Hot Springs, near Dolores, CO

From a distance, it’s True Grit. Up close, true Ritz. At first glance, Dunton Hot Springs, in Colorado’s San Juan Mountains southwest of Telluride, gives off an aura of pioneer simplicity. But the Old West was never this posh. Dunton’s new life springs from German entrepreneur Christoph Henkel, who transformed the 125-year-old mining town into a high-end resort. The 12 guest cabins blend rustic with insanely comfortable. The former saloon/dance hall is now the dining room, serving mostly regionally sourced food. Two cabins are devoted to spa treatments. Guests tend to be adventurous and interesting. Expensive? Yes.  But where else do you get your own town? Local activities include cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and dogsledding on-site; downhill in Telluride, 1 1/2 hours away. From $550, including meals; duntonhotsprings.com

 

Chena Hot Springs Resort, near Fairbanks

Photo by Brown Cannon III

Chena Hot Springs Resort, near Fairbanks

About 60 miles northeast of Fairbanks, this rustic but cozy resort has dogsledding, an amazing ice museum, and aurora borealis viewing. From $189; chenahotsprings.com

Hidden Meadow Ranch, Greer, AZ

Photo by Sara Stevens

Hidden Meadow Ranch, Greer, AZ

In the White Mountains, this luxe 12-cabin guest ranch offers winter fun and an haute-ranch menu with stunners like achiote-marinated elk tenderloin. From $325 lodging only, from $595 all-inclusive; hiddenmeadow.com

 

The Lodge at Suncadia, Cle Elum, WA

Photo courtesy of The Lodge at Suncadia

The Lodge at Suncadia, Cle Elum, WA

Comfy 254-room lodge delivers a bring-the-kids-and-dogs winter package: cross-country skiing, ice-skating, even sledding on the steep lawn with the snowy Cascades as a backdrop. From $159; suncadia.com

 

Lone Mountain Ranch, Big Sky, MT

Photo by Lynn Donaldson

Lone Mountain Ranch, Big Sky, MT

With 50-plus miles of trails, it has some of the best cross-country skiing in the States. Nearby downhill runs are tops, too. The food? So good, neighbor Ted Turner has dined here. From $1,310/person for 4 nights, including meals and some activities; lonemountainranch.com

 

Lost Trail Lodge, near Truckee, CA

Photo by Scott Sawyer

Lost Trail Lodge, near Truckee, CA

It takes a 4-mile trek on cross-country skis, amid endless Sierra views, to reach this mellow backcountry lodge. Your reward: a stove-heated room—one of four in the lodge (there’s a bathroom-less cabin too)—and a veritable Americana museum to browse post-sledding. From $89/person; 2-night minimum; losttraillodge.com

 

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