Cafe Pasqual’s. A onetime fueling station, this spot now dishes up some of the meanest huevos in town. The hordes line up before 8 for smoked-trout hash with poached eggs, gruyère potato cake, and tomatillo salsa, served in a cozy room decorated with hand-painted tiles and murals. $$; 121 Don Gaspar Ave.; 505/983-9340.
Hotel St. Francis. The updated rooms are a study in gorgeous simplicity, with stone walls and unfinished wood furniture, but the place is not all about restraint—brush off the road dust and try the Agave Way (tequila, New Mexico green chile, lime, red grapes, and agave nectar) and the chile relleno at the hotel’s Tabla de los Santos Restaurant (pictured; $$$). From $119; hotelstfrancis.com