Grazing along I-8

Fun places to eat on the long haul from Phoenix to San Diego's beaches

YUMA, AZ

Lutes Casino. The decor features movie and advertising memorabilia, and the menu's big on burgers, hot dogs, and Mexican dishes; the cavernous pool hall and restaurant date back to the 1940s. Old-timers gather daily for dominoes at the front tables.

SPECIALTIES: Potato tacos or the Lutes Special ― a hot dog on top of a cheeseburger.

FROM THE FREEWAY: From the Giss Pkwy. exit, go west about 1/2 mile, then go north about a block on Maiden Lane; look for restaurant parking lot. Front entrance is in the Main St. pedestrian mall. $; 9-8 Mon-Thu, 9-9 Fri-Sat, 10-6 Sun. 221 Main St.; 928/782-2192.


EL CENTRO, CA

La Fonda. The dining room at this family-run eatery sizzles with serape-striped tablecloths and a collection of neon beer signs. The Mexican-style menu maintains a devoted local following, with breakfast served all day and vast combination plates. This is the older of the two La Fonda restaurants in town, with lots of character.

SPECIALTIES: Huevos rancheros or machaca con verdura ― shredded beef with vegetables. If you're adventurous, try the birria de borrego (barbecued lamb) or lengua en mole (tongue in a mole sauce).

FROM THE FREEWAY: Take the Fourth St. exit, go north about 1 1/2 miles to Broadway, then go west two blocks. $; 9-9 Mon-Sat, 9-5 Sun. 548 Broadway St.; 760/353-6450.

Nora Burba Trulsson

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