Artful loafing

The rise of New Mexico's artisan bakeries is bringing back a farming tradition

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TAOS

Taos Bakery. The homey aroma of just-baked bread greets you at this charming bakery cafe with handmade furniture and minimalist decor. Baker-owner Seth Klein apprenticed at his uncle's bakery in Telluride, Colorado, and in a Paris bakery where he used an ancient wood-fired oven. Using Wheat Project flour, he fashions hearty multigrain loaves, a crisp-crusted rustic white bread, and a dense walnut raisin, plus whimsical bread sculptures. For breakfast try the six-sliced French toast, an assortment of honey cinnamon raisin, roasted walnut raisin, and challah served with maple syrup. Lunchtime pizzas and calzones are superb, particularly the eggplant parmesan pizza. 7-3 Mon-Sat. 1223 Gusdorf Rd.; (505) 751-3734.


ALBUQUERQUE

Great Harvest Bread Co. Although not an artisan bakery, Great Harvest is a commercial bakery that does mill its own non-organic Montana wheat daily in-house. You can taste samples of their two dozen varieties of bread as the loaves come out of the oven. The crusty French provincial sourdough, focaccia, walnut and gorgonzola, and savory sun-dried tomato with calamata olive breads are all low in fat. Bread is sold, but there's no cafe or food service. 7:30-7 Mon-Fri, 7:30-6 Sat, 8-5 Sun. 11200 Montgomery Blvd. N.E.; (505) 293-8277.

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