Have dim sum for breakfast in B.C.

Just south of Vancouver, the town of Richmond is home to Asian supermalls, multilane boulevards, and Canada’s largest population with Chinese ancestry. It’s not picturesque, but it’s nirvana for adventurous eaters. There is a dizzying number of dim sum places in Richmond, but the best of the best may be Empire Seafood Restaurant (604/249-0080). The translucent har gow (shrimp dumpling) is elegant, with the sweet, springy bite of shrimp inside. The barbecued pork bun comes topped with a crackling sugar crust. And while dim sum dessert can be forgettable, it isn’t here: Eat the three bite–size golden egg tarts while they’re still hot and quivering.