Play in snowy Heber Valley, Utah

Save some cash and schuss like the Swiss in Heber City and Midway
Virginia Rainey

Gliding on Olympic-class cross-country tracks, romping in the snow, and working up an appetite for one of the area's growing selection of inviting dining spots ― that's what winter in the side-by-side towns of Heber City and Midway is all about.

The best part?

You get two for one, since both historic towns ― once home to more cows and creameries than people ― have their own charming Main Streets and side streets.

But you don't get the crowds or prices of nearby Park City.

GETTING THERE

Heber City and Midway sit side by side, with U.S. 40 running through Heber City. From downtown Salt Lake City, take I-15 to I-80 east toward Cheyenne; exit U.S. 40 south, just past the Kimball Junction turnoff to Park City. From U.S. 40 south, exit into Midway on River Rd., or continue on the highway to Heber City's Main St. For more information, contact the Heber Valley Chamber of Commerce (435/654-3666).

GO

Soldier Hollow Explore the cross-country ski and snowshoe trails at this 2002 Olympic Winter Games venue in Wasatch Mountain State Park. INFO: Trail pass $18, rentals $19; 2002 Olympic Dr., Midway; 435/654-2002.

SHOP

Two Sisters Fine Art Gallery One sister paints large-scale whimsical scenes; the other runs the business, showing off a rotating collection of works by Utah artists. INFO: 5–9 Wed–Sat or by appointment; 650 West 100 South, Heber City; 435/654-6250.

Midway Mercantile Head past the antique collectibles to the back, where vintage furs abound. INFO: Closed Sat–Sun; 99 E. Main St., Midway; 435/657-0288.

Water from the Moon Handcrafted jewelry, colorful housewares, furnishings, clothing, and more. INFO: Closed Sun; 118 South 500 West, Heber City; 435/654-2267.

EAT

Spin Cafe Chow down on slow-smoked Smitty's Cotton Picker's Brisket. INFO: $$; closed Mon; 220 N. Main St., Heber City; 435/654-0251.

Snake Creek Grill Locals' favorite for its light but crisp corn cakes with sweet cream and spicy grilled shrimp. Save room for pie. INFO: $$$; closed Mon–Tue; 650 West 100 South, Heber City; 435/654-2133.

Bäckerei & Eis Despite the corporate feel of Zermatt Resort & Spa, its tiny bakery is a must-visit for pastry chef Aimee Altizer's European-inspired creations. INFO: $; 784 W. Resort Dr., Midway; 435/657-0180 ext. 1183.

MAKE IT AN OVERNIGHT

Midway's posh Euro-style Blue Boar Inn (12 rooms from $175; 888/650-1400) puts you in the midst of the area's vast cross-country and snowshoe terrain, just minutes from town. Complimentary breakfasts entice overnight guests from under their thick down comforters for cinnamon swirl brioche French toast or grilled Norwegian salmon.