The park service FAQ I read is straightforward: How scary and creepy is it to drive Going-to-the-Sun Road? Not creepy, I think, trying not to peer over the road’s edge—but scary, yeah. This two-lane road was cut from the mountains by imported Russian stonemasons, by engineers dangling over 1,000-foot cliffs. How did they do it? Why am I driving it?
Then, after the third switchback, I begin to forget to be afraid. On a slope, something regally horned: a bighorn sheep. Below, the entire North American continent.