When is a tuna melt not a tuna melt? When it's actually freshseared ahi with warm foie gras. Haute toques around the West arepresenting refined dishes in tongue-in-cheek ways that will takethe stuffing out of even the most serious customers. Having funwith flashy food: It's the new wave in upscale dining.

Tartare Cornet. Chef Thomas Keller started the trend bybeginning every meal with a salmon tartare, red onion, andcrème fraîche, hors d'oeuvre playfully presented like anice cream cone (prix fixe meal $135). The French Laundry, Yountville, CA, www.frenchlaundry.com or707 944-2380)

Tuna Foie Gras Melt. Stylish innovator George Morrone tops athick potato pancake with seared ahi tuna, then melted foie gras,and finishes it all with a Pinot Noir sauce ($29). A definitesplurge, but the taste is heavenly. Tartare, San Francisco, www.tartarerestaurant.comor 415 434-3100.

DC Burger. Canada takes on New York's famed high-end burgerswith a version from chef Damon Campbell that boasts a patty of Kobebeef and flank steak, plus short ribs, foie gras, and a truffleaioli ($28 U.S.). Diva at the Met, Vancouver, B.C., www.metropolitan.com/divaor 604 602-7788.

Lobster Corn Dogs with Smelt Fries. Razzle-dazzlerestaurateur Michael Mina's top dogs are filled with meltingly richlobster sausage and encased in a sweet, crunchy cornmeal batter ($18). Seablue, Las Vegas, www.mgmgrand.com, 702891-3486.

Ice Cream Baked Potato. Disconcerting but delicious. ChefPatrick Lambert's dessert is ice cream rolled in chocolate powderwith a banana frosting "butter pat," whipped cream "sour cream,"and green chopped pecan "chives" ($4.25). Cowgirl BBQ & Western Grill, Santa Fe, 505 982-2565.

The Coconut. At Hawaiian culinary kin Alan Wong's eponymousrestaurant, a chocolate shell is filled with coconut sorbet―adead ringer for a half-coconut ($7). Alan Wong's, Honolulu, www.alanwongs.com or 808949-2526.

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