A top spot for dinner

Have someone else cook dinner. And not just anyone—but rather chef Michael Lalewicz, whose Depot Restaurant ($$$; 1208 38th Place, Seaview; 360/642-7880) is in a former train station. Grab a stool and pair pints of Fish Tale Organic IPA with plates of pan-fried oysters. Or make it extra special (it’s the holidays, after all) and reserve the chef’s table beneath the old ticket window—now an open kitchen—where you can watch Lalewicz rake pans of sizzling duck confit above leaping flames. (And be thankful that you’re not the one slaving over the stove.)