From Seattle, head east on I-90 for about 110 miles. Info: visitellen.com
Fall is yeehaw time in this little Central Washington town, when cowboys climb aboard 2,000-pound bulls at the Ellensburg Rodeo, one of the top 10 in the nation.
Drive from Seattle: 1 hour, 45 minutes
Human pop.: 18,000
Horse pop.: 4,000
Pro cowboys in the rodeo: 500
Minimum bull ride: 8 seconds
Overheard in the bleachers: “Ouch. That’s gotta hurt.”
Dress code: Skin-tight “cowboy cut” Wranglers, dusty square-toe boots, pressed plaid western shirt, and a wide white smile.
Don your own duds: Colorful shirts and chaps on the cheap at the Ellensburg Goodwill Store (400 W. Washington Ave.; 509/925-4704).
Local treasure: The Ellensburg blue—a rare sky blue agate hiding in the foothills above town. Pay $5 to search 160 acres of private land on the Rock’N’Tomahawk Ranch (reservations required; 509/962-2403).
Tired of horses? Chat with chimps (!) at CWU’s Chimpanzee and Human Communication Institute. Learn to sign and talk with Tatu, Dar, and Loulis (weekends through Nov 28; $11; 509/963-2244).
THINGS TO DO IN ELLENBURG, WA
Real-deal rodeo: It doesn’t get more Wild West than the Ellensburg Rodeo: a rhinestone Rodeo Queen galloping around the arena; bull riders bursting out of the chutes; a not-to-be-missed post-rodeo party where you can two-step with the cowboys. Need a break from the wrangling? Outside the arena is the Kittitas County Fair, where small-town charm meets supersize fried food. Rodeo: Sep 3–6; from $15; 800/637-2444. County fair: Sep 2–6; $7; 509/962-7639.
Saddle up: Inspired to hop on a horse yourself? Laurie Rinck of Get Ride’N will teach you how to ride outside her red barn overlooking the snow-dusted Stuart Range. Then she’ll lead you and your pretty pony through pine-studded meadows. $45 per hour; reservations required; 509/674-8015.
Put back a pint: All stools are typically taken along the rustic metal-and-wood bar at Iron Horse Brewery—the locals’ favorite watering hole for Rodeo Pale, High Five Hefe, and Quilter’s Irish Death. Try a few in the $9 sampler with six 6-ounce pours. 1000 N. Prospect St.; 509/933-3134.
Eat like a country boy: It’s not all cotton candy and hot dogs—Ellensburg has its share of sophisticated eateries. But come cowboy season, how can you resist Rodeo City Bar-B-Q’s juicy pulled pork sandwiches and smoky spice-rubbed ribs? Plus cold lemonade in a glass cowboy boot, to boot. Check out the back room—graced by portraits of rodeo queens through the decades. $; 204 N. Main St.; 509/962-2727.
The city-slicker side of town
Make it a weekend