Careless, carfree

N.W. 21st Ave. and Lovejoy St. Eastbound streetcars stop two blocks north of Vitaly and Kimberly Paley's legendary French-inspired restaurant, Paley's Place ($$$; 1204 N.W. 21st; 503/243-2403). Westbound cars stop at 21st and Northrup, right in front.

N.W. 13th Ave. and Lovejoy St. You're in the Pearl District now; get a taste of the neighborhood at the Daily Cafe in the Pearl ($$; 902 N.W. 13th; 503/242-1916), with its imaginative American standards.

N.W. 11th Ave. and Johnson St. Walk a block west to take a peek at the galleries of the Pacific Northwest College of Art (closed Sun; 1241 N.W. Johnson; 503/226-4391). Dip a toe in the lapping waves at Jamison Square Park (N.W. 11th and Johnson), or just wander around the neighborhood's design shops, galleries, and eateries.

N.W. 11th Ave. and Glisan St. For heavenly Vietnamese fare, walk a block east to Pho Van Bistro ($$; closed Sun; 1012 N.W. Glisan; 503/248-2172), right across from the northbound streetcar stop at 10th and Glisan. Or reserve a table at Andina ($$$; 1314 N.W. Glisan; 503/228-9535), two blocks west, with its contemporary Peruvian cuisine.

N.W. 11th Ave. and Couch St. You won't find a bigger new-and-used bookstore than Powell's City of Books (1005 W. Burnside St.; 503/228-4651).