Beginner's guide to Alaska

You don’t have to see the same places everyone else does. Here’s our guide to the coolest glaciers, biggest bears, and best small town

Visit the totem capital
Photo courtesy of Totem Heritage Center

Visit the totem capital

Totem poles are Alaska’s most famous art-form; Ketchikan is its totem capital. Our favorite stops: Totem Heritage Center (pictured; $5; 907/225-5900); Totem Bight (free;; and Saxman Native Village ($55 tour;


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