Fishmongers: Northern CA & Rockies

Berkeley | Monterey Fish Market (pictured). When Paul Johnson and Tom Worthington opened their shop 33 years ago, nobody was talking about sustainability and fish, but these pioneers set the tone for the conversation that continues today. Exceptional freshness is a given, and every fish is labeled with its origin and how it was caught. Our pick: Monterey Bay sardines, among the most sustainable, healthy, and inexpensive choices, and Dungeness crabs. 1582 Hopkins St.; montereyfish.com

Salt Lake City | Aquarius Fish Co. This tiny store is the landlocked food-lover’s link to the ocean. Manned by sassy guys who know their stuff, it’s as fragrant as a pier, with just enough elbow room to point toward the changing showcase of wild-caught tuna and fresh mollusks, all expertly cut and packed with ice. Our pick: Housemade fish pâté for your weekend brunch. 314 West 300 South; 801/533-5653.