Charcuteries: Northern CA

Napa | Fatted Calf Charcuterie. Taylor Boetticher’s lovingly crafted meats show up on the menus of the Bay Area’s best restaurants. But this location in the Oxbow Public Market Annex is where the butchering and curing happen. Salumi like saucisson sec are the stars, but pâtés, confits, fragrant spiced duck breast, and five-spice lamb bacon are showstoppers too. Our pick: The beef jerky. It’s the best you’ll ever have. 644C First St.; fattedcalf.com

San Francisco | Boccalone. Chris Cosentino has built a national reputation by promoting an appetite for offal. At his shop—where the tagline reads TASTY SALTED PIG PARTS—you can sample the chef’s extensive collection of salumi, fresh sausages, and ham. Our pick: Nduja, a spicy, spreadable salami that’s delicious on just about anything. Add it to a sandwich or melt a generous dollop with some warm pasta and chopped green olives. Ferry Building Marketplace; boccalone.com