Duende

Duende

Alanna Hale

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Restaurants

Oakland,  California
$$
Chef and owner Paul Canales presides over the sprawling art-filled space—which encompasses a restaurant, music venue, and bodega—to deliver an atmosphere as soulful as his Spanish/Basque cooking. You can walk across a floor made of old fence posts to buy olive oil from a tap, or order a coffee and pastry and hang out beneath a Raymond Saunders painting while you listen to live flamenco music. Or settle in for a snack of txipirones, lightly battered baby squid tossed over a lemony frisée with a slow-cooked egg on top. Pair that with a flute of cava, and you might feel the spirit. Or, as they call it in Spain, the duende.
Last Reviewed July 2013

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