Viva Los Cabos

Dig into French toast smothered in nuts and cream cheese andtopped with pineapple at Mama's Royal Café (Hidalgo at Zapata in Cabo;624/143-4290). The OJ is fresh, as is the live mariachi music.

Road trip. Drive a good hour north of Cabo to Todos Santos, a bohemian enclave known for its artgalleries, surf beaches, and culinary excellence. Two-lane Highway19 skirts the coast past the farming village of El Pescadero andPlaya San Pedro (turn left at km. 57 marker and follow the dirtroad about 1 1/2 miles), an excellent beach for bodysurfing.

Art stroll. Streets around the main plaza in Todos Santosare lined with small restaurants, stylish inns, and 13 artgalleries. The Galería Santa Fe (Calle Centenario #10, in the centralplaza; 612/145-0340) bursts with milagro crosses, Frida Kahloreproductions, and eclectic folk art.

Reading list. John Steinbeck's Sea of Cortez is popular at El Tecolote Libros (corner of Juárez and Hidalgo;612/145-0295), a bookstore with selections in English andSpanish.

Try the shrimp ravioli. Some Cabo visitors come to TodosSantos just to dine in the courtyard adorned with ferns, hibiscus,and bougainvillea at Café Santa Fe (Calle Centenario #4; 612/145-0340). Gofor the ravioli stuffed with local lobster or shrimp.

Greet the fishermen. Between 1 and 3 most afternoons, localfishermen ride the waves to the beach in their pangas as theyarrive at Playa Punta Lobos (at km. 54 on Hwy. 19, go west 1 1/2miles). Buy their catch straight from the boat or in town at Pescadería Punta Lobos (on Juárez nearHidalgo).

Wine bar. The owners of the Todos Santos Inn (Calle Legaspi 33; 612/145-0040), JohnStoltzfus and Craig Sinel, put a new wine bar in a shady courtyardwhere you can sip a Baja red.

Swiss retreat. Former Zurich banker Juerg Wiesendanger andwife Libusche built their seven-room inn, Posada La Poza (near Playa la Cachora; follow Posada signsfrom Todos Santos; www.lapoza.com or612/145-0400), in a palm grove next to a bird sanctuary. The inn'srestaurant serves Mexican dishes "with a touch of Swiss."

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