Viva Los Cabos

Dig into French toast smothered in nuts and cream cheese and topped with pineapple at Mama's Royal Café (Hidalgo at Zapata in Cabo; 624/143-4290). The OJ is fresh, as is the live mariachi music.

Road trip. Drive a good hour north of Cabo to Todos Santos, a bohemian enclave known for its art galleries, surf beaches, and culinary excellence. Two-lane Highway 19 skirts the coast past the farming village of El Pescadero and Playa San Pedro (turn left at km. 57 marker and follow the dirt road about 1 1/2 miles), an excellent beach for bodysurfing.

Art stroll. Streets around the main plaza in Todos Santos are lined with small restaurants, stylish inns, and 13 art galleries. The Galería Santa Fe (Calle Centenario #10, in the central plaza; 612/145-0340) bursts with milagro crosses, Frida Kahlo reproductions, and eclectic folk art.

Reading list. John Steinbeck's Sea of Cortez is popular at El Tecolote Libros (corner of Juárez and Hidalgo; 612/145-0295), a bookstore with selections in English and Spanish.

Try the shrimp ravioli. Some Cabo visitors come to Todos Santos just to dine in the courtyard adorned with ferns, hibiscus, and bougainvillea at Café Santa Fe (Calle Centenario #4; 612/145-0340). Go for the ravioli stuffed with local lobster or shrimp.

Greet the fishermen. Between 1 and 3 most afternoons, local fishermen ride the waves to the beach in their pangas as they arrive at Playa Punta Lobos (at km. 54 on Hwy. 19, go west 1 1/2 miles). Buy their catch straight from the boat or in town at Pescadería Punta Lobos (on Juárez near Hidalgo).

Wine bar. The owners of the Todos Santos Inn (Calle Legaspi 33; 612/145-0040), John Stoltzfus and Craig Sinel, put a new wine bar in a shady courtyard where you can sip a Baja red.

Swiss retreat. Former Zurich banker Juerg Wiesendanger and wife Libusche built their seven-room inn, Posada La Poza (near Playa la Cachora; follow Posada signs from Todos Santos; or 612/145-0400), in a palm grove next to a bird sanctuary. The inn's restaurant serves Mexican dishes "with a touch of Swiss."

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