Fresh taste in Taos

Joseph Wrede shakes up New Mexico's dining scene ― again

In chapter two of an already-celebrated career, Joseph Wrede takes his place among the nation's great chefs. Lucky for Taos, New Mexico, where 38-year-old Wrede debuted his sensual, reimagined Joseph's Table last December. It's the sequel to a restaurant of the same name that closed in the mountain town more than a year ago so Wrede could travel. Amidst murals of 7-foot-tall tulips, pussy-willow chandeliers, and curtained-off cabaña booths called "love shacks," Wrede conjures an entirely new food genre: traditional New Mexican cooking fused with classic French and nouveau Japanese. Imagine the thinnest web of marlin sashimi draped over an anemone of flash-fried kale that poofs, then disintegrates on the tongue like delicate rice paper. Or the Navajo lamb cassoulet with fry bread served at lunch. Wrede is back, and better than ever.

Michelle Pence Glave

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