WHERE TO EAT
La Azotea The stylish bar upstairs at Pueblo Viejo restaurant boasts a killer city view. INFO: $$; Calle Umarán 6.
La Capilla A splurge, but the food is good and its setting -- on a rooftop just beneath the glowing spires of La Parroquia -- may just be the most romantic in the world. INFO: $$$$; closed Mon-Wed; Cuna de Allende 10; 415/152-0698.
Rincón de Don Tomás Over breakfast here, watch El Jardín waking up. INFO: $; Calle Portal de Guadalupe 2; 415/152-3780.
WHERE TO STAY
Casa de Liza Owned by American Liza Kisber, this attractive inn has a good location near Parque Juárez. INFO: 9 rooms and casitas from $170, including breakfast; 415/152-0352.
Casa de Sierra Nevada Now an Orient Express Hotel, this high-end property is a collection of five beautifully restored Spanish colonial mansions. INFO: 32 rooms from $280; no children under 16; 800/701-1561.Casa Schuck Boutique Hotel San Miguel has many B&Bs; this, the oldest, remains much-loved for its central location, stylish rooms, and swimming pool. INFO: 10 rooms from $169, including breakfast; no children under 16; 937/684-4092.
Oasis Lawrence of Arabia comes to San Miguel with this new boutique hotel. Suites bear names like Berber and Bedouin. INFO: 4 suites from $285, including breakfast; 210/745-1457.
More: Great winter escapes