Fall in love with Mexico's San Miguel

Visit a mountain city of courtyards, cobblestones, and secrets waiting to be revealed. Here's where to go and what to see

WHERE TO EAT

La Azotea The stylish bar upstairs at Pueblo Viejo restaurant boasts a killer city view. INFO: $$; Calle Umarán 6.

La Capilla A splurge, but the food is good and its setting -- on a rooftop just beneath the glowing spires of La Parroquia -- may just be the most romantic in the world. INFO: $$$$; closed Mon-Wed; Cuna de Allende 10; 415/152-0698.

Rincón de Don Tomás Over breakfast here, watch El Jardín waking up. INFO: $; Calle Portal de Guadalupe 2; 415/152-3780.

WHERE TO STAY

Casa de Liza Owned by American Liza Kisber, this attractive inn has a good location near Parque Juárez. INFO: 9 rooms and casitas from $170, including breakfast; 415/152-0352.

Casa de Sierra Nevada Now an Orient Express Hotel, this high-end property is a collection of five beautifully restored Spanish colonial mansions. INFO: 32 rooms from $280; no children under 16; 800/701-1561.

Casa Schuck Boutique Hotel San Miguel has many B&Bs; this, the oldest, remains much-loved for its central location, stylish rooms, and swimming pool. INFO: 10 rooms from $169, including breakfast; no children under 16; 937/684-4092.

Oasis Lawrence of Arabia comes to San Miguel with this new boutique hotel. Suites bear names like Berber and Bedouin. INFO: 4 suites from $285, including breakfast; 210/745-1457.

More: Great winter escapes

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