Disappear to Yelapa

THE BASICS

There are direct flights from most major airports in the West to Puerto Vallarta. From there, water taxis ($11 one-way) to Yelapa leave several times a day from the pier at Playa de los Muertos. Check out palapainyelapa.com and yelapa.info for more area information, and plan to ask locals for directions once you arrive; Yelapa is a small town, and few places use street addresses. All prices are listed in U.S. dollars.

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel Lagunita Thatched-roof casitas with mosquito nets and open-air construction infuse the place with a languid, tropical feel. We prefer the larger ocean-view rooms. INFO: From $80; +52-322-209-5055.

WHERE TO EAT

Yelapa has many good restaurants; some are seasonal, and most are pretty casual about sticking to regular business hours. Here are our favorites.

Barracuda Pizza Lounge Pizza in paradise at this open-air lounge in the sand. A great place for cocktail hour. INFO: $; at Hotel Lagunita.

Pollo Bollo Enormous plates of amazing grilled fish, ribs, and chicken. It's worth seeking out this no-frills, open-air restaurant (pronounced "Poy-yo Boy-yo"). INFO: $; dinner Tue-Wed and Fri-Sun; +52-322-209-5027.

Tres Amigos Classic Mexican dishes like conchinita pibil (slow-roasted pork with pineapple) and ceviche. Candles twinkle at night and each table rests on the sand under its own palapa. INFO: $; breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily; at Hotel Lagunita.

Yelapa Yacht Club This open-air restaurant (there are no boats) on the playita in the village has been a fixture in expat life for three decades. INFO: Dinner ($$) and disco (free) on Wed and Sat nights.