Disappear to Yelapa

This tiny village in Mexico is the perfect destination for beach bums and escapists

THE BASICS

There are direct flights from most major airports in the West to Puerto Vallarta. From there, water taxis ($11 one-way) to Yelapa leave several times a day from the pier at Playa de los Muertos. Check out palapainyelapa.com and yelapa.info for more area information, and plan to ask locals for directions once you arrive; Yelapa is a small town, and few places use street addresses. All prices are listed in U.S. dollars.

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel Lagunita Thatched-roof casitas with mosquito nets and open-air construction infuse the place with a languid, tropical feel. We prefer the larger ocean-view rooms. INFO: From $80; +52-322-209-5055.

WHERE TO EAT

Yelapa has many good restaurants; some are seasonal, and most are pretty casual about sticking to regular business hours. Here are our favorites.

Barracuda Pizza Lounge Pizza in paradise at this open-air lounge in the sand. A great place for cocktail hour. INFO: $; at Hotel Lagunita.

Pollo Bollo Enormous plates of amazing grilled fish, ribs, and chicken. It's worth seeking out this no-frills, open-air restaurant (pronounced "Poy-yo Boy-yo"). INFO: $; dinner Tue-Wed and Fri-Sun; +52-322-209-5027.

Tres Amigos Classic Mexican dishes like conchinita pibil (slow-roasted pork with pineapple) and ceviche. Candles twinkle at night and each table rests on the sand under its own palapa. INFO: $; breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily; at Hotel Lagunita.

Yelapa Yacht Club This open-air restaurant (there are no boats) on the playita in the village has been a fixture in expat life for three decades. INFO: Dinner ($$) and disco (free) on Wed and Sat nights.


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