There are said to be 54 bridges on the road to Hana, and I always intend to count them. But once again I'm distracted by the impossible beauty of this torturously twisting, narrow road that runs 44 miles from Paia to Hana. Somebody with a bean counter's soul has probably tabulated the waterfalls, as well. I just try to spot them all. Full story »
WHAT TO DO
Kahanu Gardens Tours are self-guided. 10–2 Mon–Fri; $10, free ages 12 and under. On Ulaino Rd. 1 1/2 miles north of the Hana Hwy.; (808) 248-8912.
Kipahulu Visitor Center A slow but beautiful 9-mile drive beyond Hana. A new cultural exhibit opened last spring. 9–5 daily. (808) 248-7375 or www.nps.gov/hale.
WHERE TO EAT
The area is short on dining options. Hotel Hana-Maui (see "Lodging," below) operates the only two restaurants, both of which were pricey and mediocre at our visit. The Hana Ranch Restaurant (8 a.m.–10 a.m. and 11 a.m.–3 p.m. daily, 5:30–8 Wed, 6–8 Fri–Sat; 808/248-8255), in the town center, was the best bet for breakfast and dinner. The hotel dining room (6:15 p.m.–8:45 p.m. daily; 808/248-8211, ext. 133) should improve with the arrival of chef Larry Quirit.
For lunch, bring picnic supplies from Kahului, get snacks at the Hasagawa General Store (808/248-8231), or head for Tutu's (808/248-8224), a lunch stand across from the park in Hana Bay.
WHERE TO STAY
Hana Ali'i Holidays For longer stays, this agency rents country cottages or houses, some with ocean views. From $60. (800) 548-0478, (808) 248-7742.
Hana Hale Malamalama Delightful, informal, and close to the shore, the six rooms have Asian influences and serviceable kitchens. From $110. Uakea Rd. on Hana Bay; (808) 248-7718.
Hotel Hana-Maui The new owners of this stunningly located, 66-room hotel are refurbishing the rooms and expanding the spa. Rooms from $275, cottages from $295. On the Hana Hwy.; (800) 321-4262, (808) 248-8211.