The West's BEST LAKES

California Lakes

Big Bear Lake

Boulder Bay shows the quieter side of Big Bear Lake.

Larry Ulrich

BASS LAKE

Bass Lake has star quality. A classically pretty mountain lake, ringed by tall sugar and ponderosa pines, it served as Technicolor backdrop to the beautiful-if-evil Gene Tierny in the '40s classic, Leave Her to Heaven. In the '80s, less glamorously, it costarred with John Candy in The Great Outdoors.

Today, the biggest lakeside celebrities may be the bald eagles that nest each spring and summer by the shore. But Bass Lake still appeals. Set in the Sierra Nevada foothills, it's an easy detour on the way to Yosemite National Park. On a map it looks like a fat pinkie finger - with a slight crook in the middle. It's 4 miles long, 1/2 mile wide, and fairly shallow, so the water really warms up in summer. That makes it a hot spot for those on water skis and water scooters.

Three good resorts - Ducey's on the Lake, the adjoining Pines Resort and Conference Center, and Bass Lake Lodge - give you a range of places to stay. The lake has several marinas where you can rent ski boats, water scooters, patio boats, and the like. Send up some rooster tails as you zip across the lake on water skis. Find a quiet cove to wet a fishing line, or just spread a shoreside picnic and take a dip. The water's fine. - Lora J. Finnegan

Bass Lake is 47 miles northeast of Fresno via State 41 (Yosemite Hwy.). From Oakhurst, take State 41 north to the Bass Lake turnoff (County Rd. 222) and drive about 4 miles to the lake.

The lake is at its best between Memorial Day and Labor Day - after that, water levels drop due to electricity generation and irrigation use. It's managed by California Land Management; pick up a map or parking pass ($3) at their Bass Lake office (559/642-3212) on County Rd. 222 on the south shore. Parking passes are required for developed picnic areas.

Area code is 559 unless noted.

BOAT RENTALS: The Bass Lake Water Sports and Marina (642-3200) is the lake's only full-service marina, with rentals, dock, ramps, and supplies. Boat rentals are also available at Miller's Landing Resort (642-3633) and the Forks Resort (642-3737).

FISHING: Try for any of 16 species, including kokanee salmon and rainbow trout. A California fishing license is required.

SWIMMING: The two main swim beaches (no boats allowed) are Falls Beach Picnic Area and Recreation Point; there are no lifeguards.

DINING: Ducey's Dining Room. Restaurant is the best around (in Ducey's on the Lake; see "Lodging"), with favorites like salmon Wellington and rack of lamb, and tables with water views.

LODGING: Bass Lake Lodge. This luxurious lodge was inspired in part by Yosemite's Ahwahnee Hotel. It's right on the shore, with a boat dock offering small boats for guests. Six rooms from $250. 54300 North Shore Rd.; 642-2399. Ducey's on the Lake. Modern and plush, Ducey's has 20 lake-view suites; the lobby is a pine-paneled paean to the mountains, with deer heads and Native American rugs on the walls. From $219. 39255 Marina Dr., Bass Lake; (800) 350-7463 or www.basslake.com. Pines Resort and Conference Center at Bass Lake. Managed with Ducey's, the Pines is the largest resort on the lake; it offers over 100 condolike chalets. From $179. 54432 North Shore Rd. at the Pines Village; (800) 350-7463 or www.basslake.com

CAMPING: There are 280 sites at four campgrounds around the lake. Spring Cove, close to a great beach, is a favorite. $16; reservations required. (877) 444-6777.

 
BIG BEAR LAKE 

The breeze picks up and, as the kayak rounds the appropriately named Windy Point, the stillness of Grout Bay on Big Bear Lake turns into an insistent chop that occasionally breaks over the bow.

It's a bumpy ride but well worth it for the panorama of Big Bear Lake it provides. There is the blue expanse of water, a shoreline rimmed with pines, and high above it all the great mass of San Gorgonio Mountain.

Big Bear Lake is a relatively recent presence in the San Bernardino Mountains - created at the end of the 1800s to store water for the burgeoning citrus industry around Redlands to the southwest. While the lake still plays its water storage role, today it is probably best known as a vacation spot. Within two hours of San Diego, Orange County, and Los Angeles, it has long been a quick mountain getaway for Southern Californians.

It remains a casual place, more knotty pine than mahogany - even though for generations Big Bear has been a second home for many Hollywood stars who first discovered it when they came up for filming.

Then again, you don't have to be a star to live like one in Big Bear. After the kayaking trip, you can, for example, check into the Windy Point Inn on the lake's north shore. Huge picture windows open up to the lake, and there are even views from the sauna.

The temptation is to while away the day out on the deck before taking a sauna later in the afternoon. But there are wildflowers in the mountains, walks along the lake, and a nearby gold country to explore. There's no need to settle for the bare necessities of life, not with all these essentials. - Matthew Jaffe

Big Bear Lake is 60 miles northeast of Los Angeles. For a visitors' guide, contact the Big Bear Lake Resort Association (800/424-4232 or www.bigbearinfo.com).

Area code is 909 unless noted.

LAKE FUN: Big Bear Discovery Center. This interpretive facility conducts guided outings, including paddling trips on summer weekends. 40396 North Shore Dr.; 866-3437.

BOATING: For kayaking and canoeing, we prefer the less congested north shore. Well-protected Grout Bay is the site of Captain John's Fawn Harbor & Marina ($10; 39369 North Shore Dr.; Fawnskin; 866-6478), which rents kayaks, canoes, and surf bikes. Other boat rentals are at Big Bear Marina (866-3218), Holloway's Marina and RV Park (800/448-5335), North Shore Landing (878-4386), and Pleasure Point Landing (866-2455).

FISHING. The lake holds trout, bass, catfish, and bluegill. A California fishing license is required.

MOUNTAIN BIKING. Ride with your bike up the ski lifts at Snow Summit Mountain Resort, and garner great lake views as you pedal your way back down. Bike rentals available. Day lift passes $20; (888) 786-6481.

SWIMMING. The best swimming beach is Meadow Park Swim Beach off Big Bear Blvd. on Park St., on the south side of the lake. There's a lifeguard and a nominal fee.

DINING: Mozart's Bistro. In a beautiful chalet-style structure, Mozart's serves a delicious hard cider-glazed pork entrée. 40701 Village Dr.; 866-9497. North Shore Café. Great salads and sandwiches by day and a more ambitious French menu on Friday and Saturday nights. 39226 North Shore Dr. (State 38); 866-5879.

LODGING : Alpenhorn Bed and Breakfast. Most rooms have spa tubs and gas fireplaces. From $149. 601 Knight Ave.; 866-5700, (888) 829-6600, or www.alpenhorn.com. Windy Point Inn. This modern inn offers sweeping lake views. From $135. 866-2746 or www.windypointinn.com.

In Lake County about three hours north of San Francisco, this is the biggest natural lake entirely within California (we share Tahoe with Nevada). Clear Lake offers swimming, sailing, waterskiing, and bass fishing; it's also popular among seaplane pilots, should you have a seaplane handy. Lakeport and Clearlake are the lake's main settlements. Clear Lake State Park and Anderson Marsh State Historic Park both preserve lands once used by the Pomo Indians; Anderson Marsh holds its annual blackberry festival on August 11 and 12; for information call the park at (707) 994-0688.

Area code 707 unless noted.

LODGING: Lake Point Lodge, Clearlake Oaks: 40 rooms from $60; 998-4350. Skylark Shores Motel Resort, Lakeport: 45 rooms from $75; 263-6151.

CAMPING: Campsites are available at Clear Lake State Park: $12 per night. For information, call 279-4293; for reservations, call (800) 444-7275.

CONTACT: Lakeport Regional Chamber of Commerce: 263-5092. Lake County Visitor Information Center: (800) 525-3743. - Peter Fish

Gold Lake is part of Lakes Basin - a region, northwest of Lake Tahoe, of gray craggy peaks and small, pleasing, mirror-smooth lakes. Getting reservations here can be tricky - the area is deservedly popular among Bay Area vacationers. Be persistent, aim for a midweek or post-Labor Day visit, and you'll be planning your next trip here about one minute after you arrive.

LODGING: Gold Lake Lodge: from $150; (530) 836-2350.

CAMPING: Lakes Basin Campground has 23 sites; (877) 444-6777.

CONTACT: Eastern Plumas Chamber of Commerce: (800) 995-6057. - P.F.

At the very end of State 168 in the Sierra Nevada 70 miles northeast of Fresno, Huntington is one of the lakes created by Southern California Edison's hydroelectric dams. Its artificial origins aside, this is a classic Sierra lake: pine-fringed, pretty, and high (7,000 feet). Fish for trout, hike to nearby Rancheria Falls, and stay up for views of the star-filled night.

LODGING: Lakeshore Resort: from $78; 6195 Huntington Lake Rd., Lakeshore; (559) 893-3193. Condo rental through Shaver Lake Vacation Rentals: from $145; (800) 422-4102.

CAMPING: Many campgrounds available; contact Sierra National Forest (below).

CONTACT: Sierra National Forest: (559) 855-5360. - P.F.

About 25 miles west of Big Bear, this is the San Bernardino Mountains' other great lake - a blue oasis 5,106 feet high. Lake Arrowhead has a somewhat exclusive air - the lake is privately owned, its waters not easily accessible to day visitors. Still, you can cruise the lake on the paddleboat Arrowhead Queen, hike into the San Bernardino National Forest, or hit Lake Arrowhead Village for shopping and dining.

LODGING: Bracken Fern Manor Country Inn: from $80; 815 Arrowhead Villas Rd.; (909) 337-8557. Lake Arrowhead Resort: 177 rooms from $139; 27984 State 189; (800) 800-6792.

CAMPING: North Shore Campground: 27 sites; $12; (877) 444-6777.

CONTACT: Lake Arrowhead Communities Chamber of Commerce: (909) 337-3715 or www.lakearrowhead.net. - P.F.

What to say? With 191 square miles of water and 72 miles of shoreline, this is the largest alpine lake in the nation, and one of the most popular vacation destinations in the West. North and south shore both have their charms. Choose a midweek visit to avoid some crowds; opt for a post-Labor Day visit for fewer crowds and lower prices.

LODGING: Great range of choices; for listings, contact: Lake Tahoe Central Reservations: (800) 824-6348. Lake Tahoe Incline Village & Crystal Bay Visitors Bureau: (775) 832-1606. Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority: (530) 544-5050 or (800) 288-2463. South Lake Tahoe Chamber of Commerce: (530) 541-5255.

CAMPING. For national forest campgrounds, call (877) 444-6777; for state parks, call (800) 444-7275. - P.F.



LAKE TAHOE





LAKE ARROWHEAD





HUNTINGTON LAKE





GOLD LAKE





CLEAR LAKE





Big Bear travel planner


Bass Lake travel planner

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