Taste Sonoma, California

BEST (OKAY, ONLY) SUSHI IN TOWN

Shiso

The scene Sushi bar at the back of a Japanese-serene slip of a space.

The food Yummy nigiri-sushi, including uni (sea urchin) from Fort Bragg, and maki-sushi rolls named for nearby wine regions, like the Howell Mountain ― tuna, tempura shrimp, avocado, and cucumber. Also try the wok-tossed curried mussels and local-veggie tempura. INFO: $$; closed Mon; 522 Broadway; 707/933-9331.

OLDIES BUT GOODIES, WORTH A RETURN

In a food town like this, even the classics reinvent themselves. Here are a few reasons to revisit the places that helped put Sonoma on the food map more than a decade ago.

Cafe La Haye The new chef's menu leans a little more American than French, but the cooking is as solid, the bi-level space as artsy, and the open kitchen as miniscule as ever. INFO: $$; 140 E. Napa St.; 707/935-5994.

LaSalette In its newish location, the cozy Portuguese kitchen is tucked behind shops on the square. But it still serves the same soulful food (if it's available, get the whole fish roasted in the wood-burning oven). INFO: $$$; 452 First St. E., Ste. H; 707/938-1927.

Della Santina Locals' favorite Italian restaurant has just been paired with a wine bar, making it easy to taste wine and pick up some of the restaurant's great house pasta to go. INFO: $$; 133 E. Napa St.; 707/935-0576.