Perk up in Calistoga

GO

Indian Springs Resort & Spa. The sprawling complex offers an unfussy approach to the spa experience, with mud baths, a thermal pool, and a Buddhist garden. And the cabins are nice for an over-nighter. Cottages from $185, treatments from $75; 1712 Lincoln Ave.; www.indianspringscalistoga.com or 707/942-4913.

Dr. Wilkinson's Hot Springs Resort. Founded by John Wilkinson in 1952 and now run by the doc's children, the spa offers soothing mud and mineral baths. Baths from $67; 1507 Lincoln Ave.; www.drwilkinson.com or 707/942-4102.

Old Faithful Geyser of California. The grassy private park has a picnic area, a snack shop, and a petting zoo. $8; 1299 Tubbs Lane; www.oldfaithfulgeyser.com or 707/942-6463.

FOR A SPLURGE

Ride a great big bubble into the sky with Calistoga Hot Air Balloons ($195 per person for one-hour flight, including breakfast; www.calistogaballoons.com or 888/995-7700). You'll float down-valley with a view of Mount St. Helena and vineyards in the early-morning light. With skies scrubbed clean after winter storms, the views now should be crystal clear. Afterward, enjoy a breakfast of omelets, hash browns, and sparkling wine on solid ground.